Similar to the day before, I was scheduled to start at 9am, and today’s tours were taking me out of the old city and around Bukhara’s “far off” sights.
About 14km away is Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi complex, which is the tomb of the founder of the Sufi Order “Naqshbandia”. A spiritual teacher of Amir Temur, Naqshbandi made hajj to Mekka 32 times!
The main building of the complex is the khanqah. In front of the mosque there is the minaret and small madrassah and to the west from dahma, in a separate courtyard there is the large necropolis, where Naqshbandi is buried. The Mausoleum of Saint Bakhouddin Naqshbandi is considered as the Central Asian Mecca. Believers from different Muslim countries come here to ask for the fulfillment of wishes and healing.
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshband complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshband complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshband complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshband complex]
[Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshband complex]
Returning back towards main town, and about 16km away from Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshband complex is Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace which was built in 1912-1918, and is the residence of the last Emir of Bukhara – Mir Sayyd Muhammad Alim Khan.
The palace main building consists of several reception halls and emir’s private rooms. Special attention was given to White Hall, that was decorated with ganch, laid on walls covered with mirrors. It is worth noting that mirrors in the Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace are in huge amount. There you can see Venetian mirrors, Japanese mirrors set in fancy frames, and even trellis, which creates a reflection, repeated 40 times.
In addition, the summer palace includes a tea room, small minaret, and guest house, richly encrusted with braid gold. It also houses the Museum of Arts and Crafts, where the exhibition includes palace furniture, jewelry and golden-embroidered products made by Bukhara masters.
Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace is located about 4km from the old city borders. You can see peacocks swaggering about in the gardens.
[Entrance to Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
[Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
[Museum at Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
[Museum at Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
[Conference hall for dignitaries at Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
[Ceiling of the Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
[Emir’s picture at Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
[Emir’s robe at Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace]
About 10km on the west from Sitorai palace lies Chor Bakr Necropolis, also called the city of the dead. The first graves there appeared thousand years ago, when there was a small settlement of dervishes.
In the year 1560 the Shaybanid Dynasty ruler Abdullakhan II decided to memorialize the noble family, and ordered to build a mosque, madrasah and khanaka there. It was a gift to his teacher, Djuybar Sheikh Muhammad Islam Khoja, who died in 1563. The construction of the complex was completed the same year. Died in 1593, Muhammad Islam’s son Khodja Bakr Sadi was buried next to his father. In after years other family members such as Abu Bakr Fazl and Tojidin Khasan were also buried there. These four men, who bore a title of “Bakr”, slumber in one khazira (tomb). “Bakr” is translated as “brother” and Chor-Bakr, as “Four Brothers”.
A small minaret, which resembles the famous Kalyan in Bukhara, was attached to the complex, thus the territory of Chor-Bakr hosts now 30 architectural structures.
Our last stop for the day was Chor Minor madrasah, which is located right behind Lyabi hauz, and our hotel. “Chor Minor” is translated as “four minarets” and the name is well justified by the corners of the square-rectangular madrasah building that are decorated with four small minarets crowned with blue domes, different in decors from each other.
Each of the four minarets is of a different shape. The towers’ décor elements are believed to reflect the religious-philosophical understanding of the world’s four religions. At least, it is easy to see that some elements look like a cross, a Christian fish, and the Buddhist prayer wheel.
[Chor Minor]
Heading back to the hotel, I had lunch at this roadside stall, serving delicious bread with meat in it – chicken, beef, and a cheese bread definitely will fill you.
After a nap, I walked around exploring the old town that is lit up in gorgeous colors.
[Roadside stall serving fresh, hot delicious bread.]
[Bukhara at night]
[Bukhara at night]
[Bukhara at night]
[Bukhara at night]
Back to the main street, I stopped by Minzifa restaurant for dinner and sheesha, before calling it a day!
Costs
Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = UZS 6,000 at the time of publishing. Each cost is for one adult.
| What | Cost | Notes |
| Lunch | $1.00 | Street stall serving bread – UZS 3,000 each. UZS 6,000 in total. |
| Dinner | $10.83 | Minzifa Restaurant – UZS 65,000 |
| Water & snacks | $1.67 | From local store – UZS 10,000 |
| Tip to tour guide | $30 | Bukhara tour guide. |
| Total Costs | $43.50 | Per person |
| Overall Costs | $1,224.35 | Per person |
Day 5
Bukhara
Sights of Bukhara.