Day 9 – Gazimağusa, Varosha

Today was divided in two parts – the first one was to explore all the ancient sights in the old town in Famagusta; and then head over to the ghost town of Varosha just south of the old city walls.

So after a free breakfast in the morning, I headed out on a self walking tour of the sights within the walls of old city Famagusta.

Famagusta (Gazimağusa)

With more than 20 sights to see in the old city, the city of Famagusta provides cultural heritage with its mosques, churches and historical buildings along its quaint streets lined with cafes, restaurants and bars.

Famagusta Walled City Association provides free and excellent maps of all the sights to see in this walled city.

[Click the image to go the map provided by Famagusta Walled City Association]

Here are some of the images of various sights to see in the walled city of Famagusta:

[Venetian Fortifications: Land Gate and Ravelin. The Venetian walls and fortifications that surround the historic town are a superlative example of Renaissance military architecture.]

[Kuru Çesme (Dry Fountain). This restored 17th-century Ottoman fountain is incorporated into the Venetian walling, just down from the Kizil Hamam on the opposite side of Kuru Cesme Street.]

[Nestorian Church (Agios Georgios Exorinos). The identification of this building as such, is based solely on medieval sources, which testify to the extraordinary wealth of the Nestorian merchant community of Famagusta.]

[Church of St. Anne. The small and well-proportioned church of St. Anne presents a number of distinctly Gothic elements. It closely resembles the Carmelite church in style, and therefore, probably dates from the same period of the 1300s.]

[Carmelite Church (St. Mary of Carmel). In a field across the road from the Tanners mosque are the ruins of the Carmelite Church.]

[Armenian Church (Ermeni Kilisesi). Adjacent to the Carmelite Church is the smaller, better preserved Armenian Church. Judging by style, it appears to date from the 1360s.]

[Citadel/Othellos Tower. Famagusta’s medieval castle or citadel occupies a strategic position overlooking the harbor. Built first by the Lusignans during the reign of Henry II (1285-1324).]

[Church of St. George of Latins. lthough now in ruins, some of the finest medieval carved stone ornanentation in Cyprus can be found at St. George of the Latins. The church dates back to the first decade of the 14th century.]

[Sea Gate is one of two original entrances to the walled city (also sea the Land Gate). Although medieval in its origins, it gets its distinctive appearance from the Venetians.]

[Statue of lion at Sea Gate]

[Unknown church. In the 14th century, Famagusta boasted half a dozen Latin nunneries, each of which would have possessed a small Gothic church. Very little is known about these unnamed churches.]

[St. Nicholas Cathedral / Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque. Famagusta’s former Latin Cathedral of St Nicholas is widely agreed to be one of the most splendid and most beautiful of the Frankish buildings that survives in the Levant. It was here, between the years 1291 and 1373, and after having first been crowned as kings of Cyprus in the capital, that the coronation of the Lusignan rulers as kings of Jerusalem took place. And it was here that the island’s last monarch, queen Caterina Cornaro, yielded to the monopolizing powers of the Venetian republic.]

[Venetian Palace. Only the grand east facade and back walls of the courtyard remain today of the Venetian Palace.]

Varosha

About 30 mins walk from the north-east end of Famagusta city walls where my hotel was, lies the conflicted and abandoned town of Varosha. After the invasion of Turkey in 1974, Greek Cypriots were forced to leave this famous beach-side destination overnight. The remnants of this city are still intact because of the conflict between Cyprus and Northern Cyprus when the Turkish military took over this city and barred anyone from entering it.

The Northern Cyprus military (actually Turkish military) has just opened parts of this town to visitors, while the plan is to open the whole city soon.

Passing through the security check, you have to show your passport and the purpose of your visit. Drones and UAVs are not allowed at the time of writing. Most parts of the city were off-limits, except for the beach and a few streets near the beach.

It’s a surreal experience to wander around this ghost town and see the effects of war from forty years ago.

Walked back to the walled city and stopped by a restaurant for dinner. Most of the ancient sights in Famagusta old town are lit up in the night and temperatures are cool to walk around.

« PREVIOUS – Day 8

Girne

Exploring Girne (Kyrenia) and St. Hilarion castle.

Day 9

Gazimağusa, Varosha

Exploring the walled city of Famagusta (Gazimağusa), and visiting ghost town of Varosha.

Day 10 – NEXT »

Gazimağusa to Lefkosia to Larnaca

Travel from Famagusta to Nicosia, crossing border to Cyprus and onward to Larnaca.

#Cyprus #Europe #Gazimağusa #Itinerary #NorthernCyprus #TRNC #Varosha

Day 8 – Girne

Having stayed in the heart of the old town, I visited the two main sights on Girne (Cypriot: Kyrenia) – Girne Castle and the old town. Governed by the sea, Girne’s natural harbor was used as a prime location for Turkey to invade the island in 1974. The narrow twisty lanes of the old town are main tourist attraction, alongside the bustling harbor lined with cafes, restaurants and bars.

After breakfast at the hotel, I walked around the old town exploring the narrow alleyways and streets.

[Alleyways of Girne]

[A square in Girne old town]

Winding roads brought me to the crown jewel of Girne – Kyrenia Castle (Girne Kalesi). This large rectangular structure was built by the Byzantines over the remains of Roman fort. It hosts a cistern, a dungeon, chapel and two small museums. It costs TRY 25 for entering the castle, and the highlight of this castle is walking along the ramparts high up. The views from the walls are spectacular in every direction.

[Walls of Girne Castle]

[Inside Girne Castle]

[Western side of inner walls in Girne Castle]

[View of western wall from the rampart]

[Northern wall and moat with Turkish and Northern Cyprus flags over Girne Castle]

St. Hilarion Castle

The main highlight outside of Girne is the stone walls and half-ruined buildings of the St. Hilarion Castle located about 17km outside of the city.

I hired a taxi from Girne to go to the castle, and back for TRY 150. The driver and I agreed that he will wait for me for an hour there and drive me back to Girne.

The site has three main parts: the lower enceinte (fortified defensive enclosure), the upper enceinte and Prince John’s Tower, all linked by steep staircases. The stunning views are well worth the arduous climb to the top.

A local folk legend tells that the castle once boasted 101 rooms, the last of which led to a secret internal garden that belonged to a fairy queen. This enchantress was known for seducing hunters, shepherds and travelers who stumbled into her lair and robbing them after placing them into a deep slumber.

The castle’s real history is a bit less fantastic. The lofty fort is named after the monk Hilarion, who fled persecution in the Holy Land. He lived (and died) in a mountain are that overlooked the Kyrenia plain, protecting the pass between the coast and Nicosia.

In the 10th century the Byzantines built a the church and monastery over Hilarion’s tomb. Due to the site’s strategic position, it was used as a watchtower and beacon during the Arab raids of the 7th and 8th centuries and was an important link in the communication chain between Buffavento and Kantara Castles further east.

In 1964 the Türk Mukavemet Teşkilatı (TMT), an underground Turkish nationalist group, took control of the castle, again for its strategic position. It has been in Turkish Cypriot hands ever since, with a sheltered Turkish military base located on the ridge below.

You enter by the barbican main gate into the lower enceinte, once used as the main garrison and stabling area. Then follow the meandering path up to the middle enceinte, originally protected and sealed by 1 drawbridge. Here you’ll find remains of the church, barrack rooms, four-level royal apartments and a large cistern, vital to the storage of water.

Access to the upper enceinte is via a paved winding track, which leads to the Lusignan Gate. Guarded by the Byzantine tower, it opens on to the central courtyard, adorned with more royal apartments, kitchens and ancillary chambers.

One last climb takes you to Prince John’s Tower. Legend has it that Prince John of Antioch became convinced his two Bulgarian bodyguards were plotting to assassinate him and had them thrown from the cliff, to their deaths. From the tower on clear days you can see the Thurus Mountains, 100km away in Turkey. In summer it’s best to arrive early and avoid climbing in the heat of the day.

Girne (Kyrenia) to Gazimağusa (Famagusta)

Usually there are mini-buses starting from Girne “bus station” (on Aşağı Ziya Rızkı Cadesi) going directly to Gazimağusa (lookout for the board on the buses saying “Mağusa”). After checking in with some people, I got to know that a lack of passengers forced the drivers not to take any buses to Gazimağusa. The next best option was to go to Lefkoşa (Nicosia) and then take another bus to Gazimağusa.

Luckily, the bus left soon, and after an hour, I was at the Girne Gate in Lefkoşa. From here, the next bus going to Mağusa was waiting and ready to go. Another hour and the bus ended at Itimat bus station just outside the walls of old city Mağusa, next to the Victory Monument.

It was late in evening when I reached my hotel in Gazimağusa, so wandered around the cobbled streets, grabbed dinner and called it a day!

« PREVIOUS – Day 7

Lefkoşa, Girne

North side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkoşa), and Girne Harbor.

Day 8

Girne

Exploring Girne (Kyrenia) and St. Hilarion castle.

Day 9 – NEXT »

Gazimağusa, Varosha

Exploring the walled city of Famagusta (Gazimağusa), and visiting ghost town of Varosha.

#Cyprus #Europe #Girne #Itinerary #NorthernCyprus #TRNC

Day 10 – Gazimağusa to Lefkosia to Larnaca

My last day in Cyprus was mostly spent traveling from Northern Cyprus to the south side, and reaching Larnaca by end of day. I had breakfast at the hotel in Famagusta, then considering the irrational timings of the buses in Northern Cyprus, I headed out to the bus stop.

Famagusta (Gazimağusa in Turkish) to Lefkoşa

Regular 30-seater mini-buses and dolmuş (shared 15-seater mini-buses) leave from Itimat bus stop across the traffic-circle from Victory Monument, in the south-east gate of the walled city.

[Location of bus stop in Famagusta. Red circle is the bus stop; Green circle is Victory Monument]

It takes about 1 hour to reach Girne gate in Lefkoşa. Although rates are posted in the bus, they can vary depending on the driver and the day you’re traveling on (weekends are charged more!) I paid TRY 15 from Famagusta to Lefkoşa.

Bus schedules are not fixed and vary depending on the number of people traveling. Most buses will start on time, but sometimes (especially during weekends) they wait for the bus to fill up a bit, before heading out.

[Dolmuş and mini-buses in Northern Cyprus]

Lefkoşa (north) to Lefkosia (south)

From Girne Gate in Lefkoşa, it was a 15 minute walk to the border control on Ledras street on the north side. If you had entered the island from the south side (mostly LCA airport), then you’d have got an entry stamp in your passport.

Crossing the border from the north side to the south side is a breeze. The Northern Cyprus authorities will check your passport, and let you go.

The authorities on the south side will check your entry stamp (to make sure you did not enter the island from the north side, which is deemed illegal by Republic of Cyprus), and visa (if applicable), and let you through.

[Ledras street border crossing on the south side]

Covid-19 Testing in Nicosia

Although a covid test was not required to enter into Republic of Cyprus for vaccinated travelers, I needed a test to be able to fly out to United States the next day.

And the best place to get a free covid-test is located on the south-end of Ledras street at Eleftheria Square. Just walk down the covered square and they do the antigen test for free! Takes 20 mins to get the results printed.

[Free Covid-19 Antigen test done at Eleftheria Square in Lefkosia]

Lefkosia to Larnaca

It was past noon when I got my test done, and because of a Saturday the bus between Lefkosia and Larnaca were limited. So I stopped by a restaurant on Ledras street for lunch, and took the 1pm InterCity bus to Larnaca.

InterCity bus runs between major cities in Cyprus on the hour, sometimes even 30 minutes apart (check their schedule on their website). It takes 1 hour to reach Larnaca from Lefkosia, and costs 4€ one-way. The bus leaves from the Central Bus Station on Solomos Square, next to the southern walls on old town.

[Central bus station in Nicosia]

The bus dropped me to Finikoudes beach bus stop, and my hotel was about 2km from the bus stop so caught a taxi (it being 40C outside!) to the hotel. Melting heat made me stay inside for most of the afternoon; and a walk by the beach, and dinner later, I called it a really early night because my flight was departing at 3:30am next morning.

Bus 428 don’t run that late in the night for me to reach airport, so booked a taxi through my hotel. It costs 15€ for a 7km drive from old town Larnaca to airport at midnight!

« PREVIOUS – Day 9

Gazimağusa, Varosha

Exploring the walled city of Famagusta (Gazimağusa), and visiting ghost town of Varosha.

Day 10

Gazimağusa to Lefkosia to Larnaca

Travel from Famagusta to Nicosia, crossing border to Cyprus and onward to Larnaca.

Expenses – NEXT »

How much did it cost?

List of all the expenses.

#Cyprus #Europe #Gazimağusa #Itinerary #Larnaca #Lefkosia #NorthernCyprus #TRNC

Day 7 – Lefkoşa, Girne

Nicosia remains the only divided capital city in the world, with the southern side, called Lefkosia, in Republic of Cyprus. And the northern side, called Lefkoşa (pronounced Lefkosha) in Turkish Republic of North Cyprus. There is a UN-monitored buffer zone that passes through the pedestrian-only Ledras street. This is where most people cross between the two ‘countries’.

After crossing the border into the north side, I stayed at TasEV, just 700m north-west from Ledras street crossing in the old town. The breakfast at the hotel was spectacular and filling.

The plan was to do a self walking tour of the north side of Nicosia, and then head over to Girne later in the day.

Lefkoşa

The wiggling alleyways of the Old City feels like dropping into an earlier era. The main street, Arasta Sokak, is a brushed-up modern-day bazar selling anything and everything. Prayer echoes throughout the day and remnants of war can be seen close to the UN-monitored buffer zone. Lefkoşa offers a unique blend of Cypriot, Turkish, Italian, and other cuisines. Food and transportation is cheap compared to the south side of the border.

Lefkoşa (North Nicosia) Self Walking Tour

This tour takes about 3 hours within a shirt distance of about 4km. A lot of sights to explore and museums to visit. But most of the museums and galleries were closed due to the Covid-19 pandemic at the time of writing.

This is the list of sights in the walking tour:

Ledra Crossing
Selimiye Camii
Haydarpasha Mosque
Karababa Sokak
Kumarcılar Han
Büyük Han
Atatürk Myd
Arabahmet
Armenian Church of Our Lady of Tire
Zahra Sokak
Mula Bastion

[Street in Lefkoşa]

[Mosque behind the UN-monitored buffer zone in Lefkoşa]

[Alleyway in Lefkoşa with Turkish and Northern Cyprus flags]

[Armenian Church of Our Lady of Tire]

[Büyük Han in Lefkoşa]

[Colonial-era buildings in Lefkoşa]

[Arabahmet in Lefkoşa]

[Atatürk Myd]

[Alleyway in Lefkoşa]

Lefkoşa to Girne (Kyrenia)

Walking around the town can be draining, especially in the heat, so I navigated back to the center of old town for lunch. And then to the hotel for some rest-time.

Regular 30-seater mini-buses and dolmuş (shared 15-seater mini-buses) leave from Girne gate in Lefkoşa, taking about 1 hour to reach Girne (Kyrenia). Although rates are posted in the bus, they can vary depending on the driver and the day you’re traveling on (weekends are charged more!) I paid TRY 15 from Lefkoşa to Girne.

On the way to Girne, notice the massive Northern Cyprus flag displayed on Mount Pentadaktylos. This mountain lies just across the “Green Line” from the Greek capital of Nicosia, and in the 1980s, a group of patriotic Turks used white stones to mark out a giant version of the Northern Cyprus flag on the side of the mountain. If you want to see the giant flag up close and personal, it’s a two-hour bike ride from the border to the village of Kaynakköy, and then a 40-minute hike up the hillside.

You can see this flag from the south side, as well as from space!

The buses drop you right in the center of old town in Girne. My hotel was about 10-minutes walk from the ‘bus station’ in Girne. After checking-in, and a quick nap, I headed out to the harbor for an amazing sunset, and then dinner before calling it a night.

The harbor of Girne is lined up with amazing cafes and restaurants serving variety of cuisines with a spectacular backdrop of colonial-era architecture.

[Girne Harbor]

[Girne Harbor at sunset]

« PREVIOUS – Day 6

Lefkosia

South side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkosia).

Day 7

Lefkoşa, Girne

North side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkoşa), and Girne Harbor.

Day 8 – NEXT »

Girne

Exploring Girne (Kyrenia) and St. Hilarion castle.

#Cyprus #Europe #Girne #Itinerary #Lefkoşa #Lefkosia #NorthernCyprus #TRNC

Day 6 – Lefkosia

I stayed at Kipros Accommodation about two blocks from Ledras street in the old town. Started my day by walking along the main street amass with cafes, restaurants and shops – time for some coffee and breakfast!

The plan was to do a self walking tour of the south side of Nicosia, and then head over to the north side later in the day.

Lefkosia

Nicosia Walled City. The colored line indicates the UN-monitored buffer zone dividing the capital city into two.

Nicosia is the cultural heartbeat of Cyprus and most visitors overlook it because of the jaunting beach resorts along the coastal cities. This city is mix of vibrant street life, confronting division and rich history.

The old town has a lot to offer and nearly everything lies within the snow-flake shaped Venetian walls. Looping lanes, museums, cafes, and colonial-era architecture personify this city that is divided into two by the UN-monitored buffer zone.

My first stop for the day was at the post office to get a stamp in my Postal Stamps Travelogue book. It’s a unique way of collecting memorabilia by getting a post-mark from every city I visit.

This was a unique stamp because this was the last one at the post office, and it depicts the island nation as one country with a rail line going from east to west, right in the center of the island cutting across Nicosia.

Lefkosia (South Nicosia) Self Walking Tour

This tour takes about 3-4 hours within a shirt distance of about 2.5km. A lot of sights to explore and museums to visit. But most of the museums and galleries were closed due to the Covid-19 pandemic at the time of writing.

This is the list of sights in the walking tour:

Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia (closed)
Laiki Gitonia
Archangel Michael Trypiotis Church
Omeriye Mosque
The Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Mansion
Archbishop’s Palace
Byzantine Museum (closed)
Taht-el-Kale
Panagia Chrysaliniotissa Church
CVAR – Severis Foundation

Some other sights worth visiting along the southern Venetian walls are:

Nicosia Old Aqueduct
The Liberty Monument
Famagusta Gate

Omeriye Mosque, Nicosia, Cyprus — Omeriye Mosque, Nicosia

UN-monitored buffer zone blockade, Nicosia

The Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Mansion, Nicosia

Cyprus to North Cyprus from Ledras Street Crossing

To cross from Lefkosia (south side) to Lefkoşa (north side), a covid test was required (PCR or Antigen) by KKTC (official name for TRNC) authorities. And the best place to get one is located on the south-end of Ledras street at Eleftheria Square. Just walk down the covered square and they do the antigen test for free! Takes 20 mins to get the results printed.

Covid-19 Requirements for North Cyprus

If you are entering from the Republic of Cyprus, or via the Ercan airport, there are different rules applicable at the time of writing. Depending on your departure country, you may be required to quarantine in addition to the mandated PCR/Antigen test results taken 72 hours prior to entering. Check out the TRNC government website for the latest updates.

IMPORTANT: The KKTC authorities insist on getting a printed version of the covid-test, which must have an official stamp on it. Home-test kits and other results in digital form are not accepted at the border.

[Free Covid-19 Antigen test done at Eleftheria Square in Lefkosia]

After getting my test done, I walked back to the hotel, picked up my bags and walked to the border crossing into Lefkoşa (north side), the de-facto capital city of Turkish Republic of North Cyprus.

[Ledras Border Crossing, Nicosia, Cyprus. Photography is strictly prohibited at the green line (buffer zone). Source: Medium.com]

A straight-forward process to cross the border – passport and Covid-test check on south side, walk across the buffer zone, another passport and covid-test at TRNC side, and you’re set!

I exchanged some USD to Turkish Lira (TRY), which is the accepted currency in TRNC. Walked to the hotel located less and a kilometer from the crossing. After checking-in, and a quick nap later, I headed out to grab some dinner, before calling it a day.

« PREVIOUS – Day 5

Paphos

Exploring Paphos, shipwreck beach and the west coast.

Day 6

Lefkosia

South side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkosia).

Day 7 – NEXT »

Lefkoşa, Girne

North side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkoşa), and Girne Harbor.

#Cyprus #Europe #Itinerary #Lefkosia #NorthernCyprus #TRNC

Day 5 – Paphos

After an early and full continental breakfast at the hotel, I walked to the shoreline of Paphos. At the far end of the corniche is the Paphos Castle originally a Byzantine fortress built to protect the port. Today you can see the Western Frankish Tower with the Venetian additions as restored by the Ottomans in 1592, according to a relevant inscription above the entrance of the castle. The main fortress of the city was located in Saranda Kolones, about 600 meters west, and was destroyed by the earthquake of 1222.

The plan for today to see some sights in Paphos, head over to the Shipwreck a few kilometers from the city, and then driving cross-country to the capital city of Lefkosia (Nicosia). This is the route map for today:

[Map of my route of day 5]

Chrysopolitissa Basilica

First stop was a drive to the next UNESCO World Heritage site of Chrysopolitissa Basilica. It was built in the second half of the 4th century AD and was one of the largest churches on the island. This fascinating site was home to one of Paphos’ largest religious structures. Today, there remains a Christian basilica. As you come into the church’s ground, notice St Paul’s Pillar. Legend has it that this is where St Paul was whipped due to his efforts to preach Christianity, before the Roman Governor Sergius Paulus was converted to Christianity.

In the middle of the site you will also find a medieval church, built around 1500 AD. It is still operational and is used as the main Anglican church in Paphos. You can go inside and see some beautiful traditional religious artwork.

Tombs of the Kings

Next stop was the must-see sight in Paphos – the Tombs of the Kings that opens at 8:30am. The Tombs of the Kings is part of the Paphos Archaeological Park, which a UNESCO World Heritage site, but has a separate entrance and a separate entrance fee of 4.50€. A necropolis that dates back to the 4th-century BC, the tombs are carved out of the rock and are mostly underground. The biggest and most remarkable tomb has a rectangular atrium surrounded by doric columns. The burial chambers and loculi surround such atrium.

There are eight distinctive tombs sites, some smaller and some bigger as show in the map here (click map for larger image). The architecture of the tombs show similarities to the Hellenistic tombs found in Alexandria with Greek architecture characteristics. Greek civilization, like many other ancient civilization, had specific funeral rites and death was seen as an important part of life. To enable the dead to have a successful passage into afterlife, it was important to perform the correct ritual.

The tombs are centered around a court that opens to the sky. There are either burial chambers around, tombs in the ground or loculi (narrow niches) cut into the walls. The walls were richly decorated with colorful frescoes.

Tomb Tips

Give yourself at least 1.5 – 2 hours at the site.
Try visiting early morning as it can get very hot walking around later in the day. The site opens at 8:30am.
The seven excavated tombs are scattered over a wide area, number 3 being the most impressive.
Paphos buses 615 route to Coral Bay stops right outside the entrance (costs 1.50€), departing about every 15 mins from the Harbor Bus station.
Bring a hat and lots of water!
Don’t forget the sunscreen!

Edro III Shipwreck

After the main sights in and around the city, I drove to the Edro III Shipwreck. The Sierra Leone-flagged ship ran aground off at Pegeia on 8th October, 2011. The crew was made up of 9 sailors of which 7 were Albanian and 2 were Egyptian. The ship departed from the port of Limassol with Rhodes as its destination. The ship was loaded with gypsum boards and the weather was deemed fit for the voyage.

The ship crossed the mild sea, directed towards the west to the open sea, but a severe storm ruined the voyage of the ship and after many hours of fighting with the waves in the darkness it was stuck in the rocks, during the morning of the 8th of October 2011. The crew was saved by a local British military Helicopter.

It was past 12pm by the time I started from the shipwreck, so I stopped by a cafe in Paphos before heading out to Lefkosia, the south side of the divided capital city. It takes about 3.5-4 hours depending on the traffic.

I reached Lefkosia around 4pm, checked-in to the hotel in the heart of old town, and dropped my car in the city which was about 15 mins walk from the hotel. Walked around the Ledras street for the rest of the evening.

« PREVIOUS – Day 4

Troodos Mountains

Drive around the villages and monasteries of Troodos mountains.

Day 5

Paphos

Exploring Paphos, shipwreck beach and the west coast.

Day 6 – NEXT »

Lefkosia

South side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkosia).

#Cyprus #Europe #Itinerary #NorthernCyprus #Paphos #TRNC

Planning & Information

Where: Cyprus (Larnaca, Limassol, Pafos, Troodos Mountains, Lefkosia); Northern Cyprus (Lefkoşa, Girne, Gazimağusa, Varosha)
Transport: Airlines, Bus, Car
Who: One backpacker
Currency: Euro, Turkish Lira

Planning

Orientation
This itinerary takes you through some of the best places around Cyprus and Northern Cyprus for ten days, but if you have a few days more then include some of the other wonders of the country as well.

Divided island and our trip

The island of Cyprus is divided in to two “countries”. The Republic of Cyprus (mentioned here as Cyprus) and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (mentioned here as TRNC or Northern Cyprus).

Although recognized only by Turkey, and no other UN-countries recognize TRNC, it takes the norther part of this island, and we are calling it a country because it has its own government, border controls and currency (although TRNC uses Turkish Lira, as opposed to Euro used in Cyprus).

This itinerary covers all places around both the countries – Cyprus and Northern Cyprus.

Covid-19 Requirements

Republic of Cyprus – At the time of writing, fully vaccinated travelers were allowed in Cyprus without any PCR/Antigen tests required. Every traveler must fill in an online record of their travels at CyprusFlightPass before entering Cyprus. It takes a few mins to receive the QR code that you’ll need to board the flight from your departure city. This was strictly checked at all departure and transit airports. For non-vaccinated travelers, a PCR test is required 72-hours prior to departure.

Northern Cyprus – If you are entering from the Republic of Cyprus, or via the Ercan airport, there are different rules applicable at the time of writing. Depending on your departure country, you may be required to quarantine in addition to the mandated PCR/Antigen test results taken 72 hours prior to entering. Check out the TRNC government website for the latest updates.

Visa
Make sure to check if you need a visa to travel to Cyprus. Although Cyprus is an EU member state, it is not a part of the Schengen Area, which means you may need to apply for a visa.

Entering the island from the Northern Cyprus via Ercan airport (which serves flights only to Turkey) is considered illegal entry into Cyprus by the Republic authorities. Our recommendation is to enter the island via Larnaca airport (or any other airport on the south side of the island). And then head north via the various land-border crossings.

Crossing between Cyprus and North Cyprus

From Republic of Cyprus to North Cyprus – If you plan to visit the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus (or North Cyprus, or TRNC), which is the occupied territory of Cyprus, and recognized only by Turkey, via the land border crossings, then you will NOT need a separate visa, irrespective of what citizenship you hold.

It’s a simple, straight-forward process to walk past the UN-authored buffer zones from south to north.

From North Cyprus to Republic of Cyprus – walking back into Republic of Cyprus via the land-border crossings, you will need the Cyprus visa (which you will already have considering you’d have landed in RoC). The authorities will check the entry stamp in your passport to make sure you have not entered the island from the north side.

Tips

Here are some tips that I experienced on my trip to Cyprus:

Cash or cards – Credit cards are accepted everywhere in the country (both south and north). ATMs and currency exchange centers are located almost everywhere in the big cities. Small town and villages expect cash, than credit cards. The Republic of Cyprus uses Euro as their currency, whereas the North Cyprus uses Turkish Lira (but Euro is accepted as well).
Transportation – Taxis are expensive on the south side, but very cheap on the north side. Shared buses run on North side, and Intercity buses run on the south side. Ride-share apps like Uber does not work at the time of writing.
Utilities & others
- Tap water is safe to drink on both south and north side, although avoid tap water on the north side. One liter bottle of water from a local market will cost EUR 2 on south, and TRY 5 on north side.
- Wi-fi – Available almost everywhere!
- Mobile services – The SIM card bought in either side of the island will not work on the other side. Most places in the divided-capital of Nicosia will work because of the proximity of network towers. PrimeTel in Republic of Cyprus comes at 17€ for 10GB of data for 30 days. KKTC in North Cyprus comes at TRY 150 for 10GB of data for 30 days.

Accommodation

I booked hotels before traveling to Cyprus. These were booked after reviewing them on Google, TripAdvisor, booking.com and WikiTravel.

City	Accommodation	Cost/night	Notes
Larnaca	Le Mat Hostel	$85	EUR 73 for two nights. Private room with ensuite bathroom. No breakfast included.
Limassol	Metropole Hotel	$76	EUR 64 per night. Private room with ensuite bathroom. No breakfast included.
Paphos	Pyramos Hotel	$36.50	Private room with ensuite bathroom. Free breakfast included.
Lefkosia	Kipros Accommodation	$48	EUR 40 per night. Double bed room with ensuite bathroom. No breakfast included.
Lefkoşa	TasEV	$42	EUR 36 per night. Double bed room with ensuite bathroom. Free breakfast included.
Girne	Lord’s Residence	$41	EUR 34 per night. Private room with ensuite bathroom. Free breakfast included.
Gazimağusa	Altun Tabya Vintage Hotel	$34	EUR 28 per night. Private room with ensuite bathroom. Free breakfast included.

Flights

From-to	Airline	Cost	Notes
San Francisco (SFO) to Frankfurt (FRA) to Larnaca (LCA) Larnaca (LCA) to Frankfurt (FRA) to San Francisco (SFO)	United Airlines and Lufthansa	$1,720.00	Return flight. Economy.

Planning

Planning & Information

Tips, info & details of planning.

Day 1 – NEXT »

Larnaca

Arriving in Larnaca. Old town and around.

Day 2 – NEXT »

Larnaca

Salt lake, Kamares aqueduct, and exploring towns around Larnaca.

#Cyprus #Europe #Gazimağusa #Girne #Itinerary #Kyrenia #Larnaca #Lefkoşa #Lefkosia #NorthernCyprus #Paphos #TRNC #Varosha

Day 1 – Larnaca

I arrived at Larnaca airport (LCA) in the morning and walked up to the departures level, out of airport on the ‘bridge’ and turned left to find bus 428 waiting! Jumped on the bus heading to Finikoudes bus stop in the old town. It takes about 45 minutes from here to the old town on bus number 428, and costs 1.50€. Buses run every 30 mins, except weekends and holidays when it run every 1 hour. Check the timings of the buses on their website.

I checked-in to Le Mat Hostel located right next to the Mosque in the heart of Skala neighborhood (Turkish neighborhood), about 5 mins walk from the beach.

Wandered around the old town, grabbed lunch and relaxed for the rest of the day!

Covid-19 and Larnaca

Because of the Covid-19 pandemic, a lot of museums and galleries were closed to public. The ones that are open mandated masks inside. Most of the restaurants, cafes and bars were open without any restrictions! Since Cyprus allowed vaccinated travelers to visit the country, I did see a lot of tourists, mainly from Europe.

Every traveler must fill in an online record of their travels at CyprusFlightPass before entering Cyprus. It takes a few mins to receive the QR code that you’ll need to board the flight from your departure city. See more details in the Planning section.

« PREVIOUS – Planning

Planning & Information

Tips, info & details of planning.

Day 1

Larnaca

Arriving in Larnaca. Old town and around.

Day 2 – NEXT »

Larnaca

Salt lake, Kamares aqueduct, and exploring towns around Larnaca.

#Cyprus #Europe #Itinerary #Larnaca #NorthernCyprus #TRNC

Day 2 – Larnaca

After breakfast at the hostel in Larnaca, I walked to the Finikoudes bus stop heading to the airport to pick up my rental car. It takes about 45 minutes from here to the airport on bus number 428, and costs 1.50€.

It was a simple and quick process to pick up my car. I used EuroCar that costs 186€ including full insurance for four days. The higher costs is mainly related to different locations of pick-up (LCA airport) and drop-off (Nicosia city).

The plan for today was to visit some of the magnificent villages around Larnaca and end in Limassol. This is the route for today:

[Day 2 driving route in Cyprus]

From the airport, I drove back to the hostel in old town (Skala neighborhood) to pick up my bags, and then headed out to my first stop of the day – Larnaca Salt Lake. The summer months dry up the lake replacing the water with crusty layer of salt, with heat waves bouncing off the white surface.

With not much to see at the lake, I headed out to the next pitstop – Kamares Aqueduct – Constructed around mid-1700s by Ottoman governor, the aqueduct originally ferried water from a source about 10km south and built to solve the freshwater problems of Larnaca. It remained in use until 1950s, and beautifully illuminated at night. The city also holds occasional open-air concerts on the lawns in front of the aqueduct.

Hitting the road out of Larnaca city limits, I started out west to the small village of Kiti. Located about 10km southwest of Larnaca, this village is home to the 11th-century domed cruciform church of Panagia Angeloktisti (meaning ‘Built by Angels’). The church is home to the extraordinary 6th-century Mosaic of Virgin Mary, discovered in 1952, that portrays Mary standing on a jeweled pedestal with baby Jesus in her arms, bordered by archangels Gabriel and Michael.

About 25km southwest from Kiti is the small village of Maroni. On the way you can stop over at the Mazotos Camel Park (website) that costs 6€ entrance and different prices to ride the camels.

I did not stop here, but headed straight to Maroni. Mornings in this sleepy village on a weekend paved way for empty streets and closed stores and restaurants.

[Cathedral at Maroni]

A quick stopover at Maroni, and headed back on the road to Kato Drys, a stone village full of quaint balconies!

[Kato Drys, Cyprus]

[Fields between Kato Drys and Lefkara, Cyprus]

Last city on this drive was Pano Lefkara – a mountain village well-known for the fine silverwork and exquisite lace produced by the village women. The narrow, cobbled streets are lined with fine Venetian-style merchant houses disappearing in dead-end alleyways and hidden courtyards.

This was a perfect place to have lunch, so I parked the car at Church of the Holy Cross (free, limited parking), and walked around this gorgeous village for about two hours.

And the last stop was Stavrovouni Monastery. Located at 668m high at the mountain of Stavrovouni, this monastery is revered as the oldest on the island and said to hold a piece of the Holy Cross, brought by St Helena upon her return from Jerusalem in AD 327. Today this fragment is preserved in an ornate 1.2m solid silver inside the church.

Note that taking video or pictures inside the grounds of the monastery is strictly prohibited and enforced by the monks.

[Source: Wikipedia]

Winding down to the coast, I ended up driving to my hotel in Limassol. Checked-in, had a quick nap and headed out for some dinner around the corniche, before calling it a day.

[Limassol, Cyprus]

« PREVIOUS – Day 1

Larnaca

Arriving in Larnaca. Old town and around.

Day 2

Larnaca

Salt lake, Kamares aqueduct, and exploring towns around Larnaca.

Day 3 – NEXT »

Limassol

Exploring Limassol, Akrotiri peninsula and Aphrodite beach.

#Cyprus #Europe #Itinerary #Larnaca #NorthernCyprus #TRNC

Day 3 – Limassol

It was Sunday morning, and being a long weekend in Cyprus (next day was ‘Whit Monday’), most of the town was quiet and closed early morning. Finding a breakfast place is rare on Sunday mornings, so after wandering around the old town center for a while, I ended up at a cafe (perhaps the only one open!) right next to my hotel!

The plan was to spend the rest of the day visiting the British-occupied Akrotiri peninsula, making my way to the Kolossi castle and ending the day at Aphrodite beach, before heading back to Limassol. This was my driving-route for the day:

But before getting on the road, I spent some time walking along the promenade of Limassol. By around 9am, the corniche was packed with families spending early morning cool, before it hits 30C-plus by mid-day!

Akrotiri Peninsula

I started from Limassol around 10am and first stop was in the Akrotiri peninsula. Most of the peninsula is occupied by British Sovereign Base Area (SBA), but the only indication that you’re not in Cyprus is the presence of the SBA police patrolling the territory. There are no border checks or any other controls that prevents you from entering the British territory.

[Map indicating the British SBA in Akrotiri peninsula of Cyprus]

The 7km stretch of Lady’s Mile Beach is hard-sand and pebbles, with shallow waters making it a quick getaway for the locals of Limassol.

The beach was empty for a long-weekend, so ended up walking along the water for a while and after grabbing a coffee, I moved on to the next place.

Just a few meters away from the southern end of the beach is Holy Monastery of St Nicholas of the Cats – Dating back to the 14th century, this monastery was abandoned during the 16th century and re-occupied by Orthodox nuns in the late 1980’s.

Legend says that Agia Eleni, mother of Constantine The Great left a piece of the Holy Cross at the monastery that followed a severe drought, which made Cypriots leave the island. This led to the huge numbers of snakes in the area making it unbearable for locals to live there. This made Constantine bring thousands of cats from Palestine and Egypt, and release them to the island in order to exterminate the snakes and save the area.

Around the monastery is the Limassol Salt Lake, home to migratory birds like Flamingoes, cranes and Ibis. A lot of the lake has dried up, but you can visit the Akrotiri Environment Center south of Akrotiri village.

I wanted to stop by the southernmost-point of Cyprus at Cape Zevgari, but that is off-limits to civilians and is monitored by the RAF who didn’t allow me to enter the territory.

Winding my way up north from here, next stop was Kolossi Castle. Perching high up on the Kolossi village, this more-like-a-fortified-tower dates back to mid-1400’s. It costs 2.50€ to enter and can be approached via a draw-bridge. There are about 68 stairs to climb to the top of the castle, with two floors that has nothing!

[Kolossi Castle]

[Floor one of Kolossi Castle]

[Floor two of Kolossi Castle]

[Top of Kolossi Castle]

Before the long drive from Kolossi Castle to my last stop for the day, I stopped over in one of the small villages around Kolossi for lunch and pick up supplies like water, chips, etc.

About 35km is Aphrodite’s rock and beach – distinctive for its two upright rocks, comes from a legend that Aphrodite, ancient patron goddess of Cyprus, emerged from the sea at this point in a surge of foam going off to entertain some lovers. Sunsets are the best time to visit this place for some spectacular shots of Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock and Beach).

The beach here is the most famous beach in Cyprus and you’ll find swimmers perched somewhat precariously on top of the cliffs. There’s a parking area across from the road, and a pedestrian underpass leads to the beach.

From here, I made my way back to Limassol and with everything open in the evening, stopped by at a cafe along the promenade for dinner, before calling it a day.

Aprodite Beach

If you decide to drive through the Troodos mountains (see Day 4), starting from Limassol, and end your trip in Paphos, then this would be the best way to reach Aphrodite beach, it being along the way.

But I chose to visit the Aphrodite beach today to make the best of it by spending time there to explore and jump the rugged cliffs.

« PREVIOUS – Day 2

Larnaca

Salt lake, Kamares aqueduct, and exploring towns around Larnaca.

Day 3

Limassol

Exploring Limassol, Akrotiri peninsula and Aphrodite beach.

Day 4 – NEXT »

Troodos Mountains

Drive around the villages and monasteries of Troodos mountains.

#Akrotiri #Cyprus #Europe #Itinerary #Limassol #NorthernCyprus #TRNC

Day 4 – Troodos Mountains

Waking up early at the hotel, I ventured out to get some breakfast, but it was a national holiday in Cyprus so everything was closed. And as per my hotel reception later, nothing would either open up, or will won’t open until late! Wandered the streets of Limassol looking for at least a coffee, and was almost back to hotel, when I found this cafe opening – breakfast ahoy!

Today was going to be a long day driving around the mountains of central Cyprus. Known for their charming villages with folk architecture and cobbled streets, there are several villages along the way that offer a lot.

This was my route for the rest of the day:

First stop after reaching the mountain communities was Omodos – a popular destination for day-trippers from the coastal cities, Omodos has a cobbled charm and home to great restaurants, quirky museum and the Timiou Stavrou Monastery located in the center of this village.

The parish church in the center of the Monastery was originally built around 1150, this is a beautiful place to start your tour of Omodos.

[Timiou Stavrou Monastery, Omodos]

[Alleyways of Omodos]

From Omodos, the next stop is Plano Platres, or just Platres – a popular health retreat during the British colonial time, it was cold and misty offering a much-needed relief from the peak-June heat of Cyprus. Platres is well-known for the chocolate factory which was closed because of Covid-19, but you can pick up scrumptious home-made chocolates at many shops in this village located at 1200m.

On the way from Platres to the Troodista Monstery, I stopped at the 3km long hiking trail leading up to Kaledonia Waterfalls – a 15m drop of cascading water from an immense gabbro-rock precipice. It takes about 2 hours round-trip on this easy and relaxing hike along the well-shaded and well-marked trail.

[Kaledonia Waterfalls Trail]

[Kaledonia Waterfalls]

Next up along the winding roads of mountains is the Troodista Monastery – founded after the discovery of priceless silver-shaped icon of the Virgin that was brought from Asia, this Monastery’s existing church has some spectacular paintings and ornaments.

[Troodista Monastery]

[Church of Troodista Monastery]

[Inside Troodista Monastery]

[Fields around Troodista Monastery]

Continuing along the mountain road, I passed along the shaded Kampi tou Kalogyrou amongst the pine trees, which is a great place to camp and this is where I stopped to eat my pre-packed sandwiches for lunch. From here, I continued to Cyprus’ highest village surrounded by lush orchards with apple, peach, plum and almond trees – Prodomos.

[Prodomos aerial view]

A quick drive through the narrow alleyways of this town and a detour of about 30km brought me to the spectacular Kykkos Monastery – the islands most prosperous and opulent Orthodox monastery. Founded in around 11th century, a series of fires over the centuries has destroyed almost the original monastery. The surviving building dates back from 1831.

Winding south from here, I stopped by the tiny village of Paliomylos, whose small church dates back from 17th century. And onward to Agios Dimitrios, another Byzantine period village.

Last stop on the Troodos Mountains was Fioni, which is a great place for loukoumades that is similar to Turkish delight but flavored with bergamot rather than rose water. This village is also well-known for its handmade pottery and pitharia. Although I was looking forward to having a meal at Neraida restaurant which is highly recommended by a friend, it was closed at the time!

Wineries in Troodos villages
The sleepy villages of Troodos Mountains has a lot of wineries along the way offering Commandaria that has been fermented in the mountains since the Byzantine times. If you love your wines, then Tsiakkas winery, Kyperounda winery and others in the village of Agros are to look out for!

From here, I made my way further south along the coast to my destination of the day – Paphos.

Aprodite Beach

If you decide to drive through the Troodos mountains, starting from Limassol, and end your trip in Paphos, then this would be the best way to reach Aphrodite beach, it being along the way.

But I chose to visit the Aphrodite beach on the previous day to make the best of it by spending time there to explore and jump the rugged cliffs.

« PREVIOUS – Day 3

Limassol

Exploring Limassol and Aphrodite beach.

Day 4

Troodos Mountains

Drive around the villages and monasteries of Troodos mountains.

Day 5 – NEXT »

Paphos

Exploring Paphos, shipwreck beach and the west coast.

#Cyprus #Europe #Itinerary #KaledoniaWaterfalls #Monastery #NorthernCyprus #Omodos #TRNC #TroodosMountains #Waterfalls

Cyprus & Northern Cyprus – Ten Day Trip Report

This itinerary covers all places around both the countries – Cyprus and Northern Cyprus. See the planning section for more details around moving between the two countries.

Map

Itinerary

	Planning Planning & Information Tips, info & details of planning.
	Day 1 Larnaca Arriving in Larnaca. Old town and around.
	Day 2 Larnaca Salt lake, Kamares aqueduct, and exploring towns around Larnaca.
	Day 3 Limassol Exploring Limassol and Aphrodite beach.
	Day 4 Troodos Mountains Drive around the villages and monasteries of Troodos mountains.
	Day 5 Paphos Exploring Paphos, shipwreck beach and the west coast.
	Day 6 Lekosia South side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkosia).
	Day 7 Lefkoşa, Girne North side of the capital city of Nicosia (Lefkoşa), and Girne Harbor.
	Day 8 Girne Exploring Girne (Kyrenia) and St. Hilarion castle.
	Day 9 Gazimağusa, Varosha Exploring the walled city of Famagusta (Gazimağusa), and visiting ghost town of Varosha.
	Day 10 Gazimağusa to Lefkosia to Larnaca Travel from Famagusta (Gazimağusa) to Nicosia, crossing border to Cyprus and onward to Larnaca.
	Expenses How much did it cost? List of all the expenses.

#Cyprus #Europe #Gazimağusa #Girne #Itinerary #Larnaca #Lefkoşa #Lefkosia #Limassol #NorthernCyprus #Omodos #Travel #TRNC #TroodosMountains #Varosha