How much did it cost? – Jordan

Here’s a complete breakdown of costs per person for all the nine days of our trip to Jordan.

Places to visit: Aqaba, Petra (Wadi Musa), Wadi Rum, Amman, Jerash, Madaba, Mount Nebo and Dead Sea
Modes of transport: Airlines, Bus, Taxi
Who: Two backpackers
Currency: Jordanian Dinar (JOD), US Dollar (USD)

Note: International flights in and out of Jordan are NOT included in the costs.
All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

Day 1 – Aqaba

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What	Cost	Notes
Jerusalem Hostel	$123	For 1 person, 2 nights
Snacks at bus-stop	ILS 29 or $7.40	For 1 person. Coffee and bagel
Jerusalem to Eilat	ILS 78 or $20	For 1 person, one way
Taxi from Eilot to Israel-Jordan border	ILS 20 or $5	Negotiable, but mostly fixed
Israel Exit Fee	ILS 103 or $26.20	Mandatory
Taxi from Jordan border to South Beach, Aqaba	JOD 20 or $28.20	Negotiable and can be low per person in a group
Dinner at Darna Restaurant/Resort	JOD 20 or $28.20	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$213.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$213.90	Per person

Day 2 – Aqaba

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What	Cost	Notes
Taxi from Res Sea Dive Center to city center	JOD 3 or $4.20	For 2 persons
Lunch – Kabob & Shawrma	JOD 5.30 or $7.50	For 2 persons
Sweets at Hani Ali	JOD 2.70 or $3.80	For 2 persons, sampling of 5 sweets and 1 Turkish coffee
Hookah	JOD 3 or $4.20	For 2 persons, 2 hookahs
Flag of Jordan	JOD 10 or $14.10	Souvenir
Taxi from city center to Red Sea Dive Center	JOD 6 or $8.40	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$27.75	Per person
Overall Costs	$241.65	Per person

Day 3 – Aqaba, Petra (Wadi Musa)

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What	Cost	Notes
Bus from Aqaba to Wadi Musa	JOD 10 or $14.20	For 2 persons
Bus from Wadi Musa bus station to Saba’a Hostel	JOD 2 or $2.80	For 2 persons
Lunch at Al-Arabia	JOD 7.50 or $10.60	For 2 persons
Juice	JOD 1.50 or $2.10	For 2 persons
Red Sea Dive Center	JOD 106 or $149.80	For 2 nights, 2 persons, including drinking water & scuba diving
Total Costs	$89.75	Per person
Overall Costs	$331.40	Per person

Day 4 – Petra (Wadi Musa)

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What	Cost	Notes
Petra Entry	JOD 100 or $141.20	For 2 persons
Water & Refreshments	JOD 4 or $5.60	For 2 persons
Dinner at Al-Wadi	JOD 15 or $21.10	For 2 persons
Juice & Hookah	JOD 12 or $16.90	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$92.45	Per person
Overall Costs	$423.85	Per person

Day 5 – Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum

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What	Cost	Notes
Saba’a Hotel, Wadi Musa	JOD 50.50 or $71.25	For 2 persons, two nights, including lunch for Petra & water
Bus to Wadi Rum	JOD 6 or $8.50	For 1 person
Wadi Rum Entry	JOD 5 or $7	For 1 person
Bedouin Adventures	JOD 65 or $91.75	For 1 person
Total Costs	$142.85	Per person
Overall Costs	$566.70	Per person

Day 6 – Wadi Rum to Aqaba to Amman

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What	Cost	Notes
Taxi from Wadi Rum to Aqaba	JOD 20 or $28.25	For 2 persons
Bus from Aqaba to Amman	JOD 8 or $11.30	For 1 person (JETT bus)
Lunch at Bab Al Hara	JOD 11.70 or $16.50	For 2 persons
Taxi from JETT station to Hotel	JOD 3 or $4.25	For 2 persons
Musical instrument Oud	JOD 90 or $127	For 1 person
Total Costs	$162.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$729.60	Per person

Day 7 – Madaba, Mount Nebo, Dead Sea

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What	Cost	Notes
Taxi to Dead Sea, Madaba & Mt. Nebo	JOD 40 or $56.45	For 2 persons
Greek Orthodox Church Entrance Fee	JOD 1 or $1.40	For 1 person
Mount Nebo Entrance Fee	JOD 1 or $1.40	For 1 person
Dead Sea Entrance Fee	JOD 16 or $22.60	For 1 person
Lunch at Cairo Restaurant	JOD 11.70 or $16.50	For 2 persons
Mud at Dead Sea	JOD 3 or $4.20	For 1 person
Mosaic Art at Jordan Jewel	JOD 60 or $84.70	For 1 person
Coffee & Hookah at Books@Cafe	JOD 18 or $25.40	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$163.45	Per person
Overall Costs	$893.05	Per person

Day 8 – Jerash

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What	Cost	Notes
Taxi from Amman city center to Trababour bus station	JOD 2 or $2.80	For 1 person
Bus to Jerash	JOD 0.750 or $1	For 1 person
Bus to Amman	JOD 0.750 or $1	For 1 person
Taxi from Trababour bus station to Amman city center	JOD 1.75 or $2.45	For 1 person
Lunch at Hashim Restaurant	JOD 4.50 or $6.35	For 2 persons
Dinner & drinks at Books@Cafe	JOD 12 or $17	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$18.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$911.95	Per person

Day 9 – Amman

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What	Cost	Notes
Abbasi Palace Hotel	JOD 60 or $84.80	For 2 persons, 2 nights, incl. water & breakfast
Taxi from Roman Theater to Citadel	JOD 0.750 or $1	For 2 persons
Citadel Entrance Fee	JOD 2 or $2.80	For 1 person, including museum
Roman Theater Entrance Fee	JOD 1 or $1.40	For 1 person, including museum
Taxi from city center to Airport	JOD 20 or $28.25	For 2 persons
Meal at Rama Shawerma at Queen Aila Airport	JOD 9.50 or $13.40	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$67.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$979.85	Per person

Planning

Itinerary & Planning

Tips, info & planning.

Expenses

How much did it cost?

List of all the expenses.

« Nine days in Jordan

#Asia #Expenses #Itinerary #Jordan #MiddleEast #TripReport #WestAsia

Day 9 – Amman

Our last day in Jordan started with a lazy morning and after breakfast at the hostel, we headed out to see some of the sights in the city before heading to the airport in the evening. Your hotel can book a taxi to go to the airport which is about 20 kilometers south of the city center. Inform the hotel reception at least a day in advance.

First up was the Roman Theater, just 7 minutes walk from Abbasi Palace Hotel in the city center. This is a similar version of the one at Jerash. Entry to the Colosseum is free, but it is JOD 1 to visit the Theater and the museum.

Roman Theater Tip

If you have already been to Jerash or are planning to go, then it’s wise to skip paying the JOD 1 fee to the Roman Theater in Amman because the better version is in Jerash.

Since we had visited Jerash the previous day, this was less interesting to us and after a quick visit to museum and the theater, we took a cab uphill to the highest point in Amman – The Citadel. The cab ride of 10 minutes from Roman Theater to the Citadel costs about JOD 0.750 if metered, else don’t pay more than JOD 2. It takes about 2 hours leisure stroll to completely see the area, including the museum (which is a part of the JOD 2 entry ticket).

From most places in the city, and clearly from the Citadel, you can spot the huge Jordanian flag of the Raghadan palace compound, which at 127m high is said to be the world’s largest free-standing flagpole. (A smaller but similarly impressive flag flies in Aqaba.)

Citadel Tip

If you have already been to Jerash or are planning to go, then it’s wise to skip paying the JOD 2 fee to the Citadel in Amman. But for the best and panoramic views of Amman, you may just want to head up there.

View of Amman city & Roman Theater from Citadel

Panoramic view of Amman city from Citadel

The views of the city are the best from the panoramic point inside the Citadel area. A 10 minute downhill walk brings you to the city center.

With a few more hours to kill, we relaxed at the hostel lobby and headed to Queen Alia International Airport for a 8:20pm Royal Jordanian flight out of Amman.

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Costs

Note:All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Abbasi Palace Hotel	JOD 60 or $84.80	For 2 persons, 2 nights, incl. water & breakfast
Taxi from Roman Theater to Citadel	JOD 0.750 or $1	For 2 persons
Citadel Entrance Fee	JOD 2 or $2.80	For 1 person, including museum
Roman Theater Entrance Fee	JOD 1 or $1.40	For 1 person, including museum
Taxi from city center to Airport	JOD 20 or $28.25	For 2 persons
Meal at Rama Shawerma at Queen Aila Airport	JOD 9.50 or $13.40	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$67.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$979.85	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 8

Jerash

Ancient city of Roman ruins.

Day 9

Amman

Around the capital city.

« Nine days in Jordan

Expenses – NEXT »

How much did it cost?

List of all the expenses.

#Amman #Itinerary #Jordan #MiddleEast #TripReport #WestAsia

Day 8 – Jerash

The breakfast at Abbasi Palace hotel was the worst so far in all our travels. With two tiny pieces of Falafel, cucumber, a banana and a pita bread with butter & jam, this is the so-called minimalist breakfast! Although this is free, we recommend heading out and exploring the city’s souqs for varieties of delicious meals, but remember that most of the restaurant don’t open until 9:30am. You may still find some street side options that won’t look hygienic so eat at your risk.

A walk to the post office for a stamp on the passport and back took 20 minutes.

To reach Jerash, you need to follow these steps:

Head over to the taxi stand right next to the Roman Theater, at the Raghadan Al Seyaha station.
Take the #6 Serviis taxi to Trababour bus station. This is a 15 minute drive and costs about JOD 2 per person. Remember that Trababour bus station is the last stop for the Serviis taxis.
From Trababour bus station, take a mini-bus to Jerash or Ajloun. Ask around for the exact departure gate. Most buses going to Ajloun pass through Jerash and will drop you right outside the ruins. Note that these mini-buses are not state-buses, but privately owned. Buses leave every 30 minutes from this bus station to Jerash. Services on Friday may be limited so check you hotel before heading out.

It takes lees than an hour to reach Jerash. Inform the bus driver while getting in that you want to go to Jerash, because the last stop for most buses is far ahead up north at Ajloun.

The entrance to the ruins costs JOD 8 per person for all foreign visitors, which includes the Jerash Archaeological Museum. Admission for residents costs JOD 0.500. Summer hours are 7:30 AM to 7:00 PM; winter hours are 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

Some initial ruins are outside the core city and are viewable free of charge:

Hadrian’s Arch – built in 129 AD to mark Emperor Hadrian’s visit, this was intended to become the new southern gate of the city.
Hippodrome – a partially restored Roman-era stadium. At only 245m long and 52m wide, it was the smallest hippodrome in the Roman Empire.

The Visitor’s Center is located at the entrance to the archaeological park. The site is poorly signposted, so be sure to pick up a map to orient yourself and understand what you are seeing. The ruins are fairly extensive, but it’s not hard to see everything in a matter of hours. It is unlikely that visitors will miss anything important, but some of the notable sites are:

Forum (Oval Plaza) – an unusual wide, asymmetrical plaza at the beginning of the Cardo (or Colonnaded Street), built in the 1st century AD. The Oval Plaza is 80 m by 90 m (262 ft by 295 ft) and is enclosed by 160 Ionic columns.
The Cardo – a 600 m (660 yards) colonnaded street that runs the length of the city. It was once lined with the city’s major buildings, shops and residences. A complex drainage system lies below the stone paving. Look for chariot tracks in the stone.
Agora – the city’s main food market, which has a central fountain.
Nymphaeum – an ornate public fountain that was decorated with lions heads and dedicated to the nymphs.
Temple of Artemis – impressive temple ruins dedicated to the patron goddess of the city.
South Theater – an amphitheatre that seats up to 3000. It is occasionally used today for concerts and musical productions. Daily features include bag pipers in traditional Jordanian military dress.
Jerash Archaeological Museum – features a collection of artifacts found during excavation, including coins, statuary and sarcophagi.

Jerash, Jordan

Jerash, Jordan

Watch the Roman Army and Chariot Experience at the Hippodrome. Two daily shows are at 11:30am and 2:30pm (check the timings on their website) that include Roman Legion tactics, mock gladiator fights, and chariot exhibitions. Just ask and you will be allowed to go on a chariot ride after the show. Admission JOD 10, students JOD 6.

After spending about 3 hours at the ruins, we took the first bus back to Amman and headed directly to the most well-known Hashim restaurant for a filling meal. Walked up to the hotel and relaxed for a while, before heading out to Books@Cafe at Al-Rainbow street for dinner and drinks.

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Taxi from Amman city center to Trababour bus station	JOD 2 or $2.80	For 1 person
Bus to Jerash	JOD 0.750 or $1	For 1 person
Bus to Amman	JOD 0.750 or $1	For 1 person
Taxi from Trababour bus station to Amman city center	JOD 1.75 or $2.45	For 1 person
Lunch at Hashim Restaurant	JOD 4.50 or $6.35	For 2 persons
Dinner & drinks at Books@Cafe	JOD 12 or $17	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$18.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$911.95	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 7

Madaba, Mount Nebo & Dead Sea

Mosaics, religious site & lowest point on earth.

Day 8

Jerash

Ancient city of Roman ruins.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 9 – NEXT »

Amman

Around the capital city.

#Itinerary #Jerash #Jordan #MiddleEast #TripReport #WestAsia

Day 7 – Madaba, Mount Nebo, Dead Sea

We had booked a day trip with our hotel, who had hired a private 7-seater van for two of us! Our driver, Salim, was right on time at 9am at the hotel and we were on our way to the first stop – Madaba. It’s a 45 minute ride from Amman city center to Madaba, and at our first pit-stop – The Greek Orthodox Church, officially called St. Georges Mosaic Map Church (entrance JOD 1). The Madaba Mosaic Map is an index map of the region, dating from the 6th century, preserved in the floor of the Greek Orthodox Basilica of Saint George. With two million pieces of colored stone, the map depicts hills and valleys, villages and towns in Palestine and the Nile Delta.

Spent about half an hour and headed to the post office to get a stamp on the passport. There’s not much to see in Madaba except for the church. From here, it was a 10 minute drive to the mosaic store called Jordan Jewel. This store was recommended by our tour guide & driver so obviously it was chosen because if you purchase anything, he gets commission. Ended up buying a small mosaic frame (JOD 60).

Another 10 minutes and we reached the entrance of Mount Nebo. This is an elevated ridge approximately 817 meters (2680 feet) above sea level. The view from the summit provides a panorama of the Holy Land and, to the north, a more limited one of the valley of the River Jordan. The West Bank city of Jericho is usually visible from the summit, as is Jerusalem on a very clear day. Since that day had a layer of smog, there was less visibility.

After a quick tour of about 15 minutes at Mount Nebo, we were at the Amman Beach Tourism Board office which is one of the very few official places to dive in the Dead Sea. One of the best experiences you will ever have in your life is floating in the Dead Sea. It was hot outside with temperatures over 30C (85F), but the sand felt like burning coal. There are changing rooms and showers at the center, but make sure to carry flip-flops because the walk from the showers to the sea will burn your feet. The first touch of the Dead Sea is slimy. Floated for about 20 minutes and headed out to apply the mud. Fifteen minutes under the sun and back in the water to rinse off the mud.

Headed to the showers at the beach-side to wash off the salty water and had a swim at one of the two huge pools at the center, ending the trip to Dead Sea with some coffee.

It takes about 45 minutes to reach Amman city center; and after another shower at the hotel, we headed out to grab a bite at Cairo restaurant, just a few blocks from the hotel. The minced meat sandwich in pita bread and lamb & rice are definitely worth the meal.

We had the rest of the day to kill and headed to the lively, hip neighborhood of Rainbow street with cafes lined up on either side; and to Books@Cafe for some hookah and drinks. It’s a hike up the street (and some stairs to climb) from the city center to Al-Rainbow street. The cafe is perched up on a hill-top with amazing views of Amman.

After sunset, we headed back to hotel and decided to stop at a square after noticing some local musicians about to perform. They were waiting for a policeman to finish his evening prayers (Namaz), before starting to play. About 6 of them were playing flute, guitars and Arabic drums. That was the cherry-on-the-top of an amazing day!

Street music in Amman, Jordan
Street musicians performing at Rainbow Street in Amman, Jordan. May 2012

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Taxi to Dead Sea, Madaba & Mt. Nebo	JOD 40 or $56.45	For 2 persons
Greek Orthodox Church Entrance Fee	JOD 1 or $1.40	For 1 person
Mount Nebo Entrance Fee	JOD 1 or $1.40	For 1 person
Dead Sea Entrance Fee	JOD 16 or $22.60	For 1 person
Lunch at Cairo Restaurant	JOD 11.70 or $16.50	For 2 persons
Mud at Dead Sea	JOD 3 or $4.20	For 1 person
Mosaic Art at Jordan Jewel	JOD 60 or $84.70	For 1 person
Coffee & Hookah at Books@Cafe	JOD 18 or $25.40	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$163.45	Per person
Overall Costs	$893.05	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 6

Wadi Rum to Amman, via Aqaba

Traveling from Wadi Rum to Amman via Aqaba.

Day 7

Madaba, Mount Nebo & Dead Sea

Mosaics, religious site & lowest point on earth.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 8 – NEXT »

Jerash

Ancient city of Roman ruins.

Day 6 – Wadi Rum to Amman, via Aqaba

Waking up to a beautiful and bright morning in he middle of the Wadi Rum desert in the Bedouin tent was a great experience. By 6:30am the breakfast was served and by 7:30am, our guide Mehedi was at the campsite to drive us to the Rum Village. With prior booking, our taxi to Aqaba was ready for us. There’s no direct way to go to Amman from Wadi Rum and the best option is to take a taxi for JOD 20 to Aqaba and then take the JETT bus to Amman.

It’s advisable to check with your fellow campers if they are heading to Aqaba for their onward journey so that you can share the taxi. In case if you’re traveling by yourself, inform your guide upon arrival to Wadi Rum that you’d like to share a taxi to Aqaba; they will arrange for one and preferably put you along with other travelers. There are mini-buses that leave from Wadi Rum to Aqaba at 6:30am from the Information Center (JOD 5 per person), but your guide can reserve a seat for you and you may have to start early from the camp site.

The taxi ride was about 1.5 hours on clear roads and dropped us to the JETT bus station. Reaching at 9:40am, we tried to get the 10am bus for Amman, but it was booked. JETT buses from Aqaba to Amman leave every hour (JOD 8 per person) until 6pm and takes about 4 hours. Check the schedules during the planning phase as there may not be services on Fridays.

Keep extra time for the so-called customs check at the bus station – book tickets and head over to the customs on the left side of the building and get a tag on your bags. The bus arrives about 15 minutes before departure and you can hand over the bags to the person, who will check for customs tag on each bag (hand-baggage inclusive). The 11am bus was right on time and we took the upper level (seating is assigned at the ticket counter) on the double-decker bus. The 3.5-hour ride was smooth, with awful and loud Arabic movies playing all along the way!

Arriving at the JETT bus station in Amman, the first feeling was the less humid, lower temperatures of the capital city. You will be greeted with cab drivers wanting to drive you in the city, especially if you don’t look locals. Most taxis in Amman run on meters, but the ones from the bus station may not, so negotiate the price to your destination. Any ride to the city center should not cost anything more than JOD 3.

Another 20 minutes and we were at the heart of Amman city center at our hostel – Abbasi Palace Hotel (the taxi driver from the JETT bus station knew this hotel so just mentioning the name was good enough). The first impression of this hotel was not good with its entrance from the alleyway and reception on the first floor, but don’t let that discourage you because the staff is extremely helpful and courteous. We were put in room #106 which is a two single bed room without air-conditioning or fan. But ask for a fan and you shall get.

Abbasi Palace Hotel, Amman, Jordan

Value star n star n
Location star n
Cleanliness star n star n star n
Rooms star n star n star n
Service star n

In the city center, but depressing rooms
Being in the heart of the city center, this hotel with basic amenities is located just 5 minutes walk from the Roman Theater and King Hussein Mosque; and not in the quietest area! The early morning prayer call can wake you up at 5am. Local souqs (Markets) are walking distance from this hotel and so is the trendy Al-Rainbow street. The neighborhood is very safe to walk around in the night, with some eateries open until late night.

The reception staff is extremely friendly and helpful. They will arrange for taxi at a decent rate if you want to travel around to Mount Nebo, Madaba and Dead Sea. They also got desserts for us on one evening.

It can be a bit annoying to find the entrance to this hotel where you have to go to the side of the building and take the elevator to the 1st floor. There are no distinct markings! There is no rooftop access if you are a smoker, but you will see people smoking inside the building, in a small area next to the reception.

Taxi drivers from the airport or bus station know this place well, so just mention the name of the hotel in city center.

The rooms are basic, not always clean and you may have to keep asking for basic amenities like towels or a fan (in summer months). Not all rooms have AC, so make sure to check before booking.

abbasi_palace_2

abbasi_palace_3

Headed out in search of some Jordanian meal and ended up at a restaurant few blocks from the hotel called Bab Al Hara and after a filling meal of pita bread, hummus, rice and half-chicken, we strolled around the souqs for some window shopping. One of the things-to-buy from Jordan is the stringed musical instrument called Oud, which costs about JOD 90 and available in many shops at the souq, and bought one!

Another instrument that costs less and is also played at the Petra By Night show is the single-stringed Rababah. Cheap versions of this instrument can be found in any musical instrument or souvenir shops in the souq and costs no more than JOD 5. Shop owners will sell this for JOD 10-12 but negotiate the price.

Abbasi Palace hotel offers day trips to destinations around Amman for JOD 20 per person. But if you’re traveling in a group of 4 or more persons then the price is JOD 10 per person. We booked the 6 hour tour to Dead Sea, Madaba and Mount Nebo for the next day.

Been up since 6am, it was time to call it a day and get prepared for a 9am start the next day.

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Taxi from Wadi Rum to Aqaba	JOD 20 or $28.25	For 2 persons
Bus from Aqaba to Amman	JOD 8 or $11.30	For 1 person (JETT bus)
Lunch at Bab Al Hara	JOD 11.70 or $16.50	For 2 persons
Taxi from JETT station to Hotel	JOD 3 or $4.25	For 2 persons
Musical instrument Oud	JOD 90 or $127	For 1 person
Total Costs	$162.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$729.60	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 5

Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum

Visiting Bedouin village & Wadi Rum desert.

Day 6

Wadi Run to Amman, via Aqaba

Traveling from Wadi Rum to Amman via Aqaba.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 7 – NEXT »

Madaba, Mount Nebo & Dead Sea

Mosaics, religious site & lowest point on earth.

#Amman #Itinerary #Jordan #MiddleEast #TripReport #WadiRum #WestAsia

Day 5 – Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum

Another early start at 6am; and while we were having breakfast at Saba’a Hostel, our ride to Wadi Rum was already waiting for us at 6:30am. The 20-seater bus from Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum starts exactly at 6:30am and takes about 2 hours. Make sure to check with your hotel well in advance and reserve your seat because the buses get full in an instant.

The bus brought us to the Wadi Rum Visitors Center, where we purchased the entry ticket for JOD 5 (per person). Many tourist guides meet you at the visitors center, and it is advisable to carry the print of your reservation because you may not be saying the name of the guide that you booked your reservation with. For example, we booked with Bedouin Directions and our guides name was Mehedi al-Hewaitaat, but this company has different guides and if another person (from the same company) is at the center, he will not entertain you and ask you to contact the person you booked with. At this time you may feel lost because there may not be a way to call your guide or get in touch. Fortunately, the bus driver knows all the Bedouin guides and he will call the guide and direct you onwards.

We found out that Mehedi was at the Bedouin Village inside the Wadi Rum protected area, so we got back in the bus and 5 kilometers down the road, we were dropped off with some different person. He drove us to Mehedi’s house where we were greeted with Arabic ‘welcome’ tea.

Bedouin Directions
Website: www.wadirumjeeptours.com
Mobile (outside Jordan): + 962 776886481
Mobile (inside Jordan) : 0776 886481

A day trip to Wadi Rum with an overnight stay at the Bedouin tents is good to visit the desert and also experience the Bedouin hospitality. For a full day jeep tour including lunch it costs JOD 40 per person; and add a night in the camp including dinner and breakfast (next day), it is JOD 25 extra per person. Remember that the JOD 5 per person entrance fee to Wadi Rum is not included. They accept payment in cash (JOD) at the end of your tour. Please note there are no credit card machines, ATMs, banks or exchange shops in Wadi Rum.

After some sweet Arabic tea, we were given a short orientation with the map of the protected area. We selected their “Classic Jeep tour” that will cover the best and most beautiful areas of Wadi Rum, where at each stop we had the opportunity to hike and scramble, and explore in our own time.

Our driver and guide Salim started by taking us to our first stop – Lawrence Spring. We hiked (one hour hike) up through rocks and boulders to reach the lovely fig tree to rest under, maybe find the water. During spring time you are greeted by the heady smell of herbs. The view across the Wadi from here is legendary!

View of Wadi Rum desert from Lawrence Spring

Fig tree up on Lawrence Spring at Wadi Rum

Next stop was Khazali Canyon which was once used by the local Bedouin to rest in the shade, especially in the hot summer. Once you are there, you can easily imagine how it would have looked with Bedouin tents, family’s resting, drinking tea, and children playing. See the many ancient rock inscriptions on the canyon walls – spot the inscriptions of feet and the Orynx.

It was a 15 minute ride to the Red Sand Dunes which has differing colors of rock and sand. We climbed up the sand dune for the wonderful view at the top. And as locals and everyone else does, we ran down it!

Another 5 minute ride around the next bend and we were at Anfishieh Inscriptions which are rock inscriptions on the Anfishieh Jebel from the Thamudic and Nabatean periods.

Next up was House of Lawrence, a Nabatean structure that, according to hearsay, Lawrence of Arabia used during the Great Arab Revolution to store weapons. There used to be caves here, but no one knows anything about them, so without lingering on the possible academia of this site, we climbed up for a wonderful view.

Around about now, Salim, our guide, found a beautiful, shady and quiet place to rest and enjoy some food which he prepared for us – yogurt, tuna, Gallayh, pita bread, chips, oranges, and some more Arabic tea. While he prepared lunch, we were asked to take a stroll around for an hour at the Burdah Canyon, which was nothing but rocks and boulders.

It was sweltering hot and the walking around made us starve and dehydrated. After the meal, we all took a nap for an hour under the shade of the boulder.

After that refreshing and hearty meal, out next stop was Burdah Arch. This natural rock bridge is set high up on the mountain, so we just had to see it from a distance. Although you can do the two-hour hike up to the arch.

We were disappointed for not being able to climb the Burdah Arch, but that soon turned into excitement when we reached Um Frouth Arch. This is a natural rock bridge, created by many years of water and wind, which you can climb to the top. It takes less than 10 minutes to reach up there.

The last stop was quite a drive away. And we reached at this huge rock standing on two legs called “The Chicken”. This is where we were asked to sit on top of another rock besides ‘The Chicken’ for a wonderful view of the white desert and the sunset. This place is considered as the best position for sunset viewing.

Immediately after the sunset, we were hurried to the Bedouin camp. We were with a few other tourists at the camp, where they served one of the best dinners we’ve had in Jordan, some live music and after a late night walk in the dark, we settled in the Bedouin tents, with mattresses and blankets.

Bedouin Music at Wadi Rum, Jordan
Bedouin musicians performing at Wadi Rum desert tent, Jordan. May 2012

The camp has two toilets (one WC and one Arabic/India style) and one shower. The main tent, with a fire, has sitting and relaxing area. The camp is in the white desert in a unique and beautiful location, secluded and away from any other tourist camps.

After breakfast in the camp the next morning, we headed back to the Rum village at 7am for our onward journey to Amman, via Aqaba.

How to reach Wadi Rum

Rental car/ Taxi
If you are driving to Wadi Rum by rental car/ taxi firstly you will reach the visitor center, where you will need to park the car, and go to the desk to buy your entrance ticket. If they ask you what your plans are you can tell them you have an e-mail reservation and that you are meeting your guide in the village.

Once you have your ticket, continue down the road with your car/taxi for about 5 kilometers. You will reach the village. Your guide will meet you either at the visitors center or at this guest house which is the 1st building on the right as you enter the village. There is a car park where you can park your car safely. It’s advisable to call or text your guide from the road when you are close to Wadi Rum, so that they know you are on your way and on schedule.

Bus from Petra
Mini buses leave from Wadi Musa city center 3-4 times a day – usually 2 in morning and 2 in evening. Contact your hotel in Wadi Musa / Petra about these buses well in advance to reserve a seat for you. It costs JOD 6 per person.

If you are arriving on the bus from Petra, then please tell the driver you have a booking and that you are meeting your guide in Wadi Rum village at the Guest House. He will firstly stop at the visitor center, where one of you should quickly go to get your tickets, while the other one stays with the bags and bus, to make sure he doesn’t leave without you. Once you have your tickets, the bus will continue to Rum village. The Guest House is the 1st building on the right as you enter the village and if he doesn’t stop please indicate to him that you want to get off there.

Partner Offers

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Saba’a Hotel, Wadi Musa	JOD 50.50 or $71.25	For 2 persons, two nights, including lunch for Petra & water
Bus to Wadi Rum	JOD 6 or $8.50	For 1 person
Wadi Rum Entry	JOD 5 or $7	For 1 person
Bedouin Directions	JOD 65 or $91.75	For 1 person
Total Costs	$142.85	Per person
Overall Costs	$566.70	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 4

Aqaba

Visiting capital city of Nabataeans.

Day 5

Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum

Visiting Bedouin village & Wadi Rum desert.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 6 – NEXT »

Wadi Rum to Amman, via Aqaba

Traveling from Wadi Rum to Amman via Aqaba.

#Itinerary #Jordan #MiddleEast #TripReport #WadiMusa #WadiRum #WestAsia

Day 4 – Petra

It is recommended that you reach the Treasury before sunrise, because as the sun rises, the rays fall on the Treasury and the views are spectacular. A quick breakfast later, we started at 6:15am and trailed the 20-minute downhill hike to the entrance of Petra. Our hostel hostess, Gail, had prepared Tuna sandwich (with chips and water) for lunch and was ready at 6am.

Petra itineraries

Almost everything in Petra is a highlight in itself, and the combined effect of the ancient city is truly astonishing. There are some specific sites like the Treasury, High Place of Sacrifice, the Street of Façades, the Roman Theater, Royal Tombs and the Monastery, that should not be missed.

It is very important to plan your trip around Petra to make efficient use of your time. Start your exploration early. The tour buses start arriving before 9am and most of Petra is best experienced in quietness. If you want to see the Treasury at sunrise, you can enter Petra early, visit a few other sites such as the High Place of Sacrifice and the Theater, and then return at around 9am. The Monastery and Royal Tombs are at their best in the late-afternoon light.

Here are a few suggested itineraries:

Half-day (about five hours): In this short time you can explore the Siq, the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), the Roman Theater and the Royal Tombs – all along the Colonnaded Street, Petra Church and the Nabataean Museum.
One Day (about eight hours): One day is really the minimum time needed to do Petra. Try not to rush around in one day if you have time to visit for two: pay the extra for a two-day ticket and explore the site more slowly and thoroughly. But if you just have one day then explore the places mentioned above, and allow time for a walk up to the Monastery and the High Place of Sacrifice, or even above the Treasury on Jebel al-Khubtha, if you have any remaining time and energy.
Two Days: Most consider this as an ideal amount of time that allows leisurely exploration, hikes to more remote areas, and a long lunch on one or both days. On the first day, allow time to visit the places mentioned under ‘Half-day’, and climb to the Monastery. On the second day, enter Petra along the stunning Wadi Muthlim; climb to the High Place of Sacrifice from the Roman Theater and continue along the back of the mountain to the city centre (or vice versa); and hike above the Treasury on Jebel al-Khubtha (best in the morning).

Official rate card (as of May 2012):

Map of Petra (as of May 2012):

Being an archaeological park, the entrance fees are fairly steep compared to other Jordanian attractions. Tickets for visitors spending at least one night in Jordan cost 50/55/60 JD for a 1/2/3-day pass. Guides can be hired from about 50 JD and up (depending on what you want to see) at the Visitors Center.

Horses in Petra

Horses with guides can be rented for JOD 8 for the 800m stretch between the main entrance and the start of the Siq. The price can be negotiated down to as little as JOD 2 going back up to the entrance. But a horse ride around the surrounding hills will cost around JOD 20. Only horses and carriages with guides are allowed between the main entrance and the Treasury (2km). These are officially for the disabled and elderly, but are often rented by tired hikers. They officially cost JOD 20 for a two-person carriage; JOD 40 to the museum.

Donkeys accompanied with guides are available all around Petra for negotiable prices. They can go almost to the top of the Monastery (about JOD 5 one way), and all the way to the High Place of Sacrifice (about JOD 7 one way), and can be rented for trips as far as the Snake Monument and to Jebel Haroun. Although riding donkeys is a genuine occupation for local Bedouins, animal lovers must think twice about hiring one to climb the incredibly steep and narrow paths, especially because there has been numerous complaints about whacking the animals and unfair treatment.

Camel rides are more for the novelty value, and are available for short rides and photographs near the Theatre and Qasr al-Bint. A trip between Qasr al-Bint and the Treasury, for example, costs about JOD 7.

The walk from the entrance of the old city to the Treasury takes about less than an hour (with multiple stops to click shots). Passing through the canyon of high and colorful sandstone, the first stop was the dam on either side of the canyon.

About 2 kilometers from the entrance is the Siq. Throughout the Siq, you can see minor carvings, but the most impressive sights are the colorful and unusual sandstone patterns in the rock walls. There are also remains of terracotta pipes built into the sides of the canyon that were used in Roman times to carry water.

A few minutes of walk ahead and you will see the jaw-dropping grandeur of the Treasury (Al-Khazneh). It’s rumored that the urn at the top contained a Pharaoh’s hidden treasure, and the urn bears the bullet pock marks where Bedouin travelers throughout the years have tested the theory. The best part about being at the treasury was we were all by ourselves with some local Bedouins. So getting there early when the park opens at 6am or 6:30am (depending on the season) will pay off the early rise because you may have the Treasury all to yourself or with less than 5-10 people around.

For gorgeous views of the Treasury, far from the madding crowds, make the 1.5-hour return hike from the Palace Tomb, with the option of returning via the Urn Tomb. Start this hike in the early morning to get the Treasury in good light, or in mid-afternoon when some parts are in the shade.

Walking past the next bend is the Street of Facades, a large canyon lined with the facades of various tombs. At the end of the Street of Facades is the 7000-seat Roman Theater. The theater was created by the Nabateans but later enlarged by the Romans. It is still used for occasional performances.

On the side of the valley opposite the Roman Theater and a short walk up the hill, are the Royal Tombs. The name was given because they are quite grand in scale compared to the others in the area, but it is unclear for whom the tombs were originally constructed.

And on the left, before reaching the Roman Theater is a 45-minute hike up to the High Place of Sacrifice. The view of the Theater and the tombs around is spectacular from above. As you near the top of the mountain, you will come to what is known as Attuf Ridge. On this ridge are two obelisks, such as are found in India. They are carved out of solid rock and are over 6 meters high. They have the typical Nabataean style of haching (etching) on the side that is protected from the prevailing winds.

Walking further down the Colonnaded Street will bring you to the end of the low-land trail at the Great Temple. Fallen columns still represent the grandeur of the temple. And at the end of the road is Qasr Al-Bint.

This is where we took a break, had lunch and were prepared to hike up the 1.5-hour trail to the Monastery.

Over 800 steps lead up to the Monastery, and can take about an hour and half. Few visitors choose to ride donkeys up to the top. The donkeys are treated very badly, and it’s quite depressing seeing this along the way. The Monastery (ad-Deir), the largest carved monument in Petra, dates back to the 1st century AD. There’s nothing to see inside so avoid walking up to the gates.

We relaxed here for a while before heading down to the entrance.

Petra Tips

Everything inside the realm of Petra is very expensive as compared to Wadi Musa. So make sure to carry plenty of water bottles that will cost JOD 0.70 per bottle in Wadi Musa and JOD 2 inside Petra. Even food, refreshments and souvenirs are three times the price.

Petra by Night happens on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday at 20:30. Entrance fee is JOD 12 (May 2012) and you do not need a day pass. Order your tickets at your hotel. It is only made of candles, you’ll hear a short play of Bedouin music and be served some tea in plastic cups while you sit on mats at the Treasury. It’s best to see this before you see Petra by day, as it becomes far less impressive if you already walked up to the Treasury during daytime. It’s not amazing, but it’s something nice to do during nighttime.

Wadi Musa doesn’t have any big touristic attraction, but the hotels are cheap and just a down-hill walk away from Petra. A tiring day, some quick dinner at Al-Wadi restaurant (Hummus, bread, Gallagh with chicken and Magloubah) and hookah after, we were ready to hit the sack early.

Next stop will be Wadi Rum and buses from Petra to Wadi Rum leave at 6:30am. Contact you hotel desk well in advance to reserve a place on this bus as it gets full in no time.

Partner Offers

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Petra Entry	JOD 100 or $141.20	For 2 persons
Water & Refreshments	JOD 4 or $5.60	For 2 persons
Dinner at Al-Wadi	JOD 15 or $21.10	For 2 persons
Juice & Hookah	JOD 12 or $16.90	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$92.45	Per person
Overall Costs	$423.85	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 3

Aqaba, Petra (Wadi Musa)

Traveling from Aqaba to Wadi Musa & day there.

Day 4

Petra

Visiting capital city of Nabataeans.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 5 – NEXT »

Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum

Visiting Bedouin village & Wadi Rum desert.

#Asia #Itinerary #Jordan #MiddleEast #Petra #TripReport #WadiMusa #WestAsia

Day 3 – Aqaba, Petra

It was a beautiful 22C sunny morning in Aqaba and after an early Turkish breakfast at the hostel, we headed out to the beach for a last dip in the Red Sea. There were a lot of purple jelly fishes washed up to the shore; and since they were not the stingy kinds, we held them for a quick picture and put them back in the water.

While checking out of the hostel at 10am, we inquired about taxi to Wadi Musa / Petra at the reception and we were told that it costs JOD 60 (one way) and the other option was to go to the city center and look for private buses that costs a lot less but never run on schedules. We took the second option and after reaching the city center, our cabbie told us that we can find buses to Petra from the bus station (not the JETT bus station) right across from the post office. Note that this is not the JETT bus station so make sure to get down at the post office and walk across the street where you will see private mini-buses (10-12 seater) waiting in the huge parking lot.

After asking a few locals we were directed uphill, 2 blocks from the bus stand to another bus stand. The schedules of these buses are not fixed, especially there are a very few buses after noon, so make sure to arrive as early as you can (first bus starts at 6:30am). Also, the bus doesn’t leave until it’s full, but there are passengers always waiting to take the next one so the waiting is not long. Remember that women don’t sit next to men in public transport in Jordan, so while selecting your seats you may be asked to pick another seat or wait for the next bus, depending on the people in it; so plan accordingly. We got lucky because the bus arrived in 5 minutes and the seating arrangement was perfect that got us started in no time. The bus costs varies, but do not pay anything more than JOD 5. If you’re in doubt, ask before boarding.

It was a 1.5 hour ride to Wadi Musa, with multiple quick stops because of locals alighting and boarding all the time. The final stop is Wadi Musa bus station and it’s a bit of the walk to the city center from there. The city of Wadi Musa is on mountains so it’s not easy walking to the center with bags. The bus shuttle of Valentine Hotel times itself to the arrival of the private bus and offers free service to guests living there. Since Valentine Hotel is in the city center and out hostel – Saba’a Hostel – is right next to it, we decided to take the bus for JOD 1 per person.

Saba’a Hostel, Wadi Musa (Petra), Jordan

Value star n
Location star n
Cleanliness star n
Rooms star n star n
Service

Great hostel, friendly staff, good rooms
If you’re looking to stay in some place close to the Petra entrance, then this is not the one for you. But the good part is that it’s a downhill walk of about 10-15 minutes to the entrance pf Petra from the hostel and on your way back you will find a taxi for 1 JOD. Saba’a hostel is located in the heart of Wadi Musa city center, a stone-throw away from all the shops and restaurants. The other bad part, apart from being away from Petra entrance, is that it’s located next to a mosque, which can get noisy during the prayer calls.

Owned and managed by Gail (from Britain) and her husband Ibrahim, this hostel has good and clean rooms – although the one we stayed at had an amazing view in the city center but the fan in the room was very noisy at its max. The staff are extremely friendly and very considerate of everything in the hostel. Gail was kind enough to prepare a to-go breakfast of Tuna Sandwich (at a price) at 6a.m., that we could carry with us to Petra, for lunch. They also have water bottles at 0.500 JOD a big bottle, so make sure to carry them with you because everything inside the city of Petra is very expensive (a same size bottle in Petra will cost 2 JOD).

The views from the rooftop are breath-taking in day and night, so get some cold-drinks or coffee in the evening and watch the sun set from the nicely decorated rooftop.

sabaahostel1

sabaahostel2

We headed out for lunch at Al-Arabi restaurant right around the corner on the main square. The magnificent city of Petra is a 15-minute downhill walk from Saba’a hostel, so we headed straight for it, hoping to see the sunset from inside of Petra. By the time we reached there it was almost 6:30pm and they close the last entry at 6pm. We knew that it would be a tiring walk uphill to the hostel, and as soon as we started to head back, a taxi driver called out and offered to drop us to the hostel for JOD 1, which we gladly took up the offer.

After a long, yet relaxing day, the rooftop of the hostel was a great place to relax and the sunset is spectacular. Stay up late after sunset for a cool breeze and great views of Wadi Musa at night. After some juice in a nearby restaurant, we were off to sleep, excited to wake up early for a day at Petra.

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Bus from Aqaba to Wadi Musa	JOD 10 or $14.20	For 2 persons
Bus from Wadi Musa bus station to Saba’a Hostel	JOD 2 or $2.80	For 2 persons
Lunch at Al-Arabia	JOD 7.50 or $10.60	For 2 persons
Juice	JOD 1.50 or $2.10	For 2 persons
Red Sea Dive Center	JOD 106 or $149.80	For 2 nights, 2 persons, including drinking water & scuba diving
Total Costs	$89.75	Per person
Overall Costs	$331.40	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 2

Aqaba

Diving in Red Sea & day in coastal town.

Day 3

Aqaba, Petra (Wadi Musa)

Traveling from Aqaba to Wadi Musa & day there.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 4 – NEXT »

Petra

Visiting capital city of Nabataeans.

#Aqaba #Asia #Itinerary #Jordan #MiddleEast #Petra #TripReport #WestAsia

Day 2 – Aqaba

Red Sea Dive Center in South Beach, Aqaba, offers free Turkish breakfast that includes pita bread, cucumbers, olives, tomatoes, hummus, pineapple juice, bread (butter & jam as well) and tea/coffee. The staff is very friendly and helpful. That was a great and filling breakfast, keeping us up and running for the adventurous morning that we were about to have.

They also offer scuba diving for JOD 40 per person, per dive. We were asked to gather at their dressing room at 9am, where they select the right sized suit and shoes. Abdullah, our guide and hotel staff, was helpful and patient with all the tantrums of the 10-odd number of people waiting to get their gear on. After making sure we had all the gear, we were packed into a mini-van and taken off to the Japanese Gardens, which is a coral reef in the Red Sea, about 10 minute ride from the resort.

Upon reaching the shore, we were given instructions and asked to put on the gear – diving suit, gas tank, diving glasses and fin-shoes. Weights were attached to a belt and wrapped around the waist that makes us sink in the salty sea. Walking from the “changing area” on the shore to the sea was on scorching hot pebbled-sand and very uncomfortable!

Scuba diving gear tip

For scuba diving with any of the resorts in Aqaba, don’t expect professional and perfect gear. Make sure the fins-shoes are a size smaller than what is recommended, which will make them really tight on your feet and help keep them on while diving. The ones I had on were exact size and the lock was off when in water that made the fins loose and impossible to swim.

When we were in waist-deep water, our instructors, Abdullah and Saki, helped us put on the fins; and we started with our first dive in shallow waters, making sure we were easy with the gear on. After a few glitches – water filling up in glasses, pressure differences on ears and being unable to breath, we got comfortable and headed out in the open sea.

It was all good and magnificent since then – the coral reefs, fishes, turtles, sea-horses and sea urchins. My very first dive and now I cannot wait to dive in the Great Barrier Reef in Australia! The whole 40 minutes of under water was an experience I’ll always remember. On our way out, the mini-van was waiting for a ride back to the resort.

A quick shower later we were on our way to the Aqaba city center. The taxi costs JOD 5 (per ride) one way and takes about 15 minutes to reach the Aqaba Fort at King Hussein street.

There’s not much to do and see in Aqaba except for a few sites that travel guides recommend, one of which is the Aqaba fort. You pay JOD 1 as entrance fee and there’s a free museum you can visit. But it’s not worth spending the time and money on this place since it’s not at all preserved well, the whole place smells of urine and trash and the only residents you’ll find are cats and rats. Spending about 20 minutes at this terrible place, we walked past the fifth tallest free standing flagpole in the world at a height of 130 meters (430 ft) and hosts the flag of Arabia, indicating the start of the Arabic nations for the cruise ships entering the Red Sea into Jordan or Israel.

Walking along side the beach-side on King Hussein street, we headed towards Alayah (Alya) Square in search of ‘Hani Ali’ – supposedly the best place for sweets in Aqaba. Turning right on Hamamat Street, we walked past the right turn on Raghadan street and walked ahead. After asking some locals, we got to know that Hani Ali sweets is on Raghadan street (Address: 3 Raghadan St., Aqaba). It’s a big restaurant/store that offers about 50 varieties of sweets and for oriental cake lovers, this is paradise. Try the baklava and dough thin-shell pistachios, hazelnuts, pine nuts with a touch of sugar or honey. Reasonable prices and the baklavas are a must-bring-back-to-home item.

Walked back to the beach via Alayah Square, and being Friday the beach was packed with locals, camping out at the shoreline. Families had setup tents right at the shore with half tents in the water and other half on the sand. This seemed to be a popular way of dipping feet in the water, while sitting on a chair, avoiding the Sun directly on them. A bunch of fishermen boats will offer glass-bottom rides in to the Red Sea, but it’s not recommended to hire them as the water in the Red Sea is not clear enough to see the corals or fishes from the glass-bottom boats.

A stroll at the beach and a quick walk on the pier after, we went looking for a shack that serves some Jordanian food and hookah, and landed at this restaurant with a roof-top seating area. The views of the sunset were spectacular from the roof-top and you can see Eilat (Israel) and Taba (Egypt) across the Red Sea.

After sun down, we started to head back to King Hussein street, but heard some people having a party on the street-side, and walking over to the flag-pole square, there was a bunch of guys singing, dancing and playing musical instruments. It was a great experience to watch them have a fun time and be a part of the ‘event’.

Street party at Aqaba, Jordan
Street-side party at the main square under the biggest flag in the world – the flag of Arabia in Aqaba, Jordan. May 2012

Got a taxi back to the hostel and called it an early night, looking forward to two days in Petra.

Partner Offers

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Taxi from Res Sea Dive Center to city center	JOD 3 or $4.20	For 2 persons
Lunch – Kabob & Shawrma	JOD 5.30 or $7.50	For 2 persons
Sweets at Hani Ali	JOD 2.70 or $3.80	For 2 persons, sampling of 5 sweets and 1 Turkish coffee
Hookah	JOD 3 or $4.20	For 2 persons, 2 hookahs
Flag of Jordan	JOD 10 or $14.10	Souvenir
Taxi from city center to Red Sea Dive Center	JOD 6 or $8.40	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$27.75	Per person
Overall Costs	$241.65	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Day 1

Aqaba

Crossing border from Israel & day in the coastal town.

Day 2

Aqaba

Diving in Red Sea & day in coastal town.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 3 – NEXT »

Aqaba, Petra (Wadi Musa)

Traveling from Aqaba to Wadi Musa & day there.

#Aqaba #Asia #Itinerary #Jordan #MiddleEast #TripReport #WestAsia

Day 1 – Aqaba

After a crazy and tiring day in Jerusalem, Israel walking around the city for almost ten hours visiting the museums, government buildings and the Old City (more on this later), I had a sound sleep on “day zero”; woke up with a fresh and relaxed mind and headed out for an early start at 8am.

After a quiet breakfast and coffee at a cafe right across the hostel on Jaffa Street, I took the tram from Jaffa City Center station on a 10-minute, 3-station ride to the Central Bus Station. The tram tickets cost ILS 6.60 for a single ride and can be purchased at the tram station.

Expect long lines for security check at the entrance of the central bus station, and it can take a while especially if you’re traveling with big bags. The officers will make you open the bags and just swipe their hands through them before letting you go.

As recommended by the hostel staff, I had booked the bus ticket to Eilat a day in advance. After reaching the central bus station in Jerusalem, I headed to departures on the second floor and the bus #444 arrived at Terminal 4 just 10 minutes before the 10a.m.-scheduled departure. I never thought of this before, but was lucky to get the seat #41 – next to the window and on the left side, which makes it on the side of the Jordanian border when driving south from Jerusalem to Eilat.

Bus from Jerusalem to Eilat

While booking bus tickets from Jerusalem to Eilat, ask the staff at the ticket counter if you could get a seat that is on the left side of the bus and preferably a window seat. That way you’d be on the side of the Jordanian border most of the time and the views of the Dead Sea are spectacular along the way.

The bus takes about 4.5 hours to reach Eilat, including a 20-minute stop for snacks. I had informed the driver to stop at Eilot (the ‘o’ is different from ‘a’ in Eilat), which is a few kilometers before the city of Eilat. Because of some construction work going on at Eilot, I was dropped at a gas station ahead of the intersection of freeway 90 and road 190; and walking to Road 190 was not an option as I would have to walk on the freeway 90. Having to pay ILS 20, I got into a cab at the gas station and after a quick 10 minute ride, I was at the Jordan border.

Getting to Israel-Jordan border at Eilot

Israel - Jordan Border (Click to view) — Israel – Jordan Border

Make sure to inform the driver to drop you at the intersection of Freeway 90 and Road 190. Once at the intersection, it’s a 20-30 minute, 1.5 kilometer walk to the border. But walking in the scorching heat of the desert and less than a mile of walking may not be a good idea, so a better option is to get down at the gas station just ahead of the intersection, from where you may find a cab, pay ILS 20 and head to the border. This is a gas station outside of the city so only cabs that stop by for gas may be available.

Visitors exiting Israel at the Aqaba border must pay an exit fee of ILS 103 and go through the customs window to get an exit stamp. This is where I entered Jordan.

Got over to the visa office, which was lined with tourists entering Jordan, I was at the window in about 5 minutes. The officer asked me basic questions like why was I visiting Jordan, for how long and with whom – all this while processing my visa. Visitors entering Jordan at the Aqaba border must pay JOD 8 as entrance fee (cash only), but I was told “you’re Indian, so you go free”! With a visa stamp for 15 days and another 5 minute walk, I was at the taxi border. A cab ride to the Aqaba city center will cost JOD 10, but our resort was another 15 kilometers away from the city center at the South Beach, so the cost for the cab ride was JOD 20.

Taxi at Aqaba border crossing

Even though you don’t have any options to go from the Aqaba border to the city center, other than the taxi, always negotiate your costs politely and confirm if the set price was for per person or per ride, if you’re more than one person traveling. If you decide to form a group to take the cab to the city center, make sure to talk over before exiting the border gate; and pretend to be best friends before leading up to the cab drivers.

A 30-minute cab ride through the city center, I was at the Red Sea Dive Center (read review) at the South Beach. This place is in the middle-of-nowhere and an uphill walk from the beach. This area is called the “Diving Center Village”, which most cab drivers recognize as. There are a few resorts and diving centers here that offer cheap accommodation and scuba diving lessons (or snorkeling, if you prefer).

It was 34C (93F) outside and after checking-in, I went for a swim in the beautiful and clean pool of the resort. A few laps after, headed out to the beach for a walk and watched the sunset across the Red Sea.

Darna restaurant and Resort is right across from the beach, at the entrance of the Dive Center village. Had Jordanian dinner at the restaurant and called it a day!

Partner Offers

Costs

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = JOD 0.75. Each cost is for one adult.

What	Cost	Notes
Jerusalem Hostel	$123	For 1 person, 2 nights
Snacks at bus-stop	ILS 29 or $7.40	For 1 person. Coffee and bagel
Jerusalem to Eilat	ILS 78 or $20	For 1 person, one way
Taxi from Eilot to Israel-Jordan border	ILS 20 or $5	Negotiable, but mostly fixed
Israel Exit Fee	ILS 103 or $26.20	Mandatory
Taxi from Jordan border to South Beach, Aqaba	JOD 20 or $28.20	Negotiable and can be low per person in a group
Dinner at Darna Restaurant/Resort	JOD 20 or $28.20	For 2 persons
Total Costs	$213.90	Per person
Overall Costs	$213.90	Per person

« PREVIOUS – Planning

Itinerary & Information

Tips, info & planning.

Day 1

Aqaba

Crossing border from Israel & day in the coastal town.

« Nine days in Jordan

Day 2 – NEXT »

Aqaba

Diving in Red Sea & day in coastal town.

Jordan – Nine Days Trip Report

Note: All values in USD are approximate and based on the exchange rate at at that time.

Itinerary, planning, tips and information

After making a list of all the destinations we wanted to cover in 9 days, we had a rough idea of what it may cost for accommodation, commuting between places and meals, miscellaneous in USD. We selected hostels for accommodation after reading reviews on various websites and used HostelWorld.com for all bookings. Payments are accepted in Jordanian Dinar (JOD) only, except in Aqaba that accepted USD.

Accommodation
There was some minimal research involved in booking hotels. After deciding on staying at hostels, we logged in to HostelWorld.com and after researching on reviews of some hostels at each location we booked them well in advance. One of the advantages of staying in hostels, except for cheap accommodation, is you can cancel a booking 24 hours before your arrival time and you’ll just lose the 10% deposit you paid during reservations.

Although most hostels have accommodation upon arrival too, but it’s always best to book in advance because some of them may have limited number of rooms, especially private rooms. And if it’s on-season then they may fill up fast. Another reason to book in advance is you may need “confirmed hotel bookings” for visa application.

Visa
A lot of countries have an option of visa-upon-arrival, but it’s best to check their website and apply for a visa well in advance as the consulate may take anything between 1 to 4 weeks. Also, the visa upon arrival may be applicable to certain ports of entry only – for example, if you’re a U.S. citizen and entering through King Hussein bridge from Jerusalem, then you need a visa stamped in your passport as they do not issue a visa upon arrival, but if you’re entering from Eilat, Israel into Aqaba, Jordan then you can get a visa upon arrival for a fee of 20 JD ($28 USD) for a single entry, 40 JD ($56 USD) for two entries, and 60 JD ($84 USD) for a multiple entry.

Visa are given typically for 30 days, but visas upon arrival can be, and usually are, given for 15 days. If you want for more days then you should ask the officer before the stamping, maybe handing over a copy of your itinerary.

Map

A – Aqaba
B – Wadi Musa / Petra
C – Wadi Rum
D – Amman
E – Jerash
F – Madaba
G – Mount Nebo
H – Dead Sea

Planning

Itinerary & Information

Tips, introductio & everything you need to know.

Expenses

How much did it cost?

List of all the expenses.

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Aqaba

Crossing border from Israel & day in the coastal town.

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