Day 3 – Shahr-e-Zohak, Dragon Valley, Bamiyan

We started driving from Kabul to Bamiyan, taking about 3.5-4 hours, reaching Bamiyan around noon. After checking-in to hotel (Gholghola Hotel), we headed out of Bamiyan city to visit the following sights.

Shahr-e-Zohak

Perched high on the cliffs at the confluence of the Bamiyan and Kalu rivers, the ruins of Shahr-e-Zohak guard the entrance to the Bamiyan valley. Built by the Ghorids, they stand on foundations dating back to the 6th century. Genghis Khan’s grandson was killed here, bringing down his murderous fury on the whole Bamiyan valley as a result. The colloquial name Zohak is taken from the legendary serpent-haired king of Persian literature.

Made of mud-brick on stone foundations, the towers of the citadel wrap around the side of the cliff, with geometric patterns built into their crenellations for decoration. The towers had no doors, but were accessed by ladders that the defenders pulled up behind them.

The views over the confluence of the two rivers are awesome, with their thin strips of cultivated green providing a stark contrast to the dry pink and tan of the mountains. The location’s strategic value is immediately apparent, and the heights seemingly impregnable to all except Genghis.

Bamiyan Market

From the hills of Bamiyan valley, we headed back to the city center to visit the market that sells local souvenirs, garments and produce.

 

Buddhas of Bamiyan

Created in the 6th century, the Bamiyan Buddhas have been the largest Buddha statues west of China, and rose majestically out of the otherwise featureless plains of Central Afghanistan. There were two main statues, 53 and 35 meters high respectively, that portrayed a Vairocana Buddha and a Shakyamuni Buddha. A number of smaller Buddha statues adorned the surrounding area. Surrounding the statues were also several undecorated monastic cells, which had been, just as the Giant Buddhas, hewn into the cliffs.

After the Taliban destroyed the Buddhas in 2002, several countries have tried to reconstruct the statues but it does not seem likely that the Giant Buddhas are to be rebuilt anytime soon.

 

 

 

 

Dara-e-Ajdahar (Dragon Valley)

After spending a while at the market, we stopped by a local restaurant for lunch, and headed to the fascinating Dragon Valley, located about 30 minutes from Bamiyan city center.

Dara-e-Ajdahar, the Valley of the Dragon, takes its name from what locals believe are the petrified remains of a fearsome beast that once terrorized the area. According to legend, the dragon settled in Bamiyan during pagan times and demanded a daily tribute of virgins and camels from the oppressed inhabitants. Every attempt to kill it ended in flames—until Ali, the Prophet Muhammad’s son-in-law, arrived after creating the Band-e-Amir lakes. As the dragon’s fiery breath curled around him and transformed into tulip petals, Ali drew his mighty sword, Zulfiqar, and split the creature in two.

The dragon’s form is still said to be visible today, though only the unpoetic would insist it is nothing more than a massive ridge of volcanic rock cracked by an ancient earthquake. Believers instead point to the two-meter-high “horns” and the pair of springs at its head—one clear, said to be the dragon’s tears, and the other red, its blood. These springs trickle along the length of the great fissure, and if you lean close, some say you can hear the dead creature’s groan echo within the stone. At the far end of this rocky silhouette lies a modest shrine dedicated to Ali.

 

Back in Bamiyan just after sunset at Dragon Valley, we had dinner at another local restaurant and called it a day!

 

Afghanistan story highlights on Instagram This trip report can also be seen on our story highlights on Instagram account @travelonthedollar. Click the image on left to go directly to Afghanistan Highlights, or visit our Instagram profile and under ‘Highlights’, scroll to the right and click on ‘Afghanistan’.

 

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = AFN 67 at the time of publishing. Each cost is for one adult. Note that the expenses do not include international flights to and from Afghanistan.
 

What	Cost	Notes
Lunch	$4.48	AFN 300.
Dinner	$4.48	AFN 300 dinner at local restaurant in Bamiyan.
Day Costs	$8.96	Per person
Overall Costs	$2,404.90	Per person

 

 
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