Day 11 – Samangan, Balkh

Today we will explore the surrounding towns of Samangan, Kholm and Balkh from Mazar-i-Sharif. After breakfast at the hotel we drove east towards the town of Aybak (Samangan).

On the way we stopped by the stunning Hindu Kush mountains of Afghanistan, and bought melons on the way!

Takht-e-Rostam (Aybak)

Perched on a hill just outside Samangan’s provincial capital of Aybak, Takht-e-Rostam is one of Afghanistan’s most remarkable rock-cut Buddhist complexes. What makes it truly unique is that the entire sanctuary — its stupa, chambers, and corridors — was carved directly into solid stone, creating a monastic environment that feels both intimate and timeless. The centerpiece is a circular stupa hewn from a single rock outcrop, surrounded by a trench-like passage that monks once walked in meditative ritual. This architectural style is rare even in the broader Buddhist world, giving Takht-e-Rostam an almost otherworldly character.

Beyond the stupa lies a network of caves and rooms that once served as meditation cells, living quarters, and spiritual spaces. These interconnected chambers offer a quiet, contemplative atmosphere, their smooth stone walls still bearing the subtle marks of ancient craftsmanship. For visitors, the site provides an evocative window into Afghanistan’s Buddhist heritage—centuries before Islam shaped the region. With its sweeping views of the surrounding valleys and its serene, carved-in-stone beauty, Takht-e-Rostam remains a place where history feels incredibly close and the silence speaks volumes.

Bagh-e-Jehan Nama Palace (Kholm)

Built between 1890-1892 by Amir Abdur Rahman, Bagh-e-Jehan Nama Palace was then further restored and renovated between 1974-1976 by President Daoud Khan with the intention of turning it into a museum. However an earthquake in 1976 caused serious damage to the structure and the following years of conflict and civil war led to further damage and the neglect of the palace.

Russian soldiers used the palace and grounds as a base after the 1979 invasion. Army tanks were situated in the sculpted gardens, and parts were concreted over to provide stable surfaces to drive on, this left the gardens in ruins. Now the palace is empty and taken care by an old man who lives around the palace.

Noh Gonbad Mosque (Balkh)

Known as “Mosque of Nine Cupolas”, this is a historic former mosque, now in a partial ruinous state. It is thought to be the oldest Islamic building in Afghanistan, dating to the 9th century or possibly to the late 8th century.

Green Mosque

The Green Mosque or the Mosque of Khawaja Abu Nasr Parsa is a mosque, madrasa and mausoleum complex that contains the Shrine of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa. The mosque’s name is derived from the kashi tiles on the walls of the mosque, which are colored turquoise, known locally as Turkish Green. The mosque was completed in 1421, during the Timurid era.

Balkh Citadel and Old Tower

The deserted, fortified citadel is a rare remnant of ancient Bactria and its capital city, Balkh. Of a time before the Greeks, Kushans and Abbasid Caliphate.

Alexander the Great sealed his political alliance with Bactria by marrying Roxana, the Bactrian princess, right here in 327 BC, paving the way for him to move deeper into Asia. Later centuries saw victories by one empire after the other celebrated within its walls, with the Mongols razing it to the ground in the 13th Century, only for it to be resurrected by the Timurids in the late-14th Century.

Nothing much remains now except for the towering walls and restored towers. But when one stands atop the Greco-Bactrian/ Kushan-era 25-metre-high, 100-metre-thick walls straddled by the equally ancient Ayaran Tower, the scale of ancient Balkh hits home. It was no small city, spread over a large circular expanse 1.5 kilometers in diameter, and referred to as the ‘mother of all cities’ by the Arabs who were overawed by its wealth.

 
After a full day of sightseeing around Mazar-i-Sharif visiting some of the religious and ancient places, we reach the city late evening. A quick dinner at a local restaurant and it was end of a perfect day!

Afghanistan story highlights on Instagram This trip report can also be seen on our story highlights on Instagram account @travelonthedollar. Click the image on left to go directly to Afghanistan Highlights, or visit our Instagram profile and under ‘Highlights’, scroll to the right and click on ‘Afghanistan’.

Postcard
Mazar-i-Sharif
The breathtaking facade of the Blue Mosque showcases the pinnacle of Timurid architecture with its mesmerizing, sea-of-blue tilework.

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Sakhi Shrine, Kabul
The stunning blue tilework and domes of the Sakhi Shrine (Ziyarat-e Sakhi) stand beautifully against the setting sun.

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Bamiyan
A golden-domed mosque stands in the foreground of the towering empty niche of the Great Buddha carved into the sandstone cliffs behind it.

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Band-e-Amir National Park
The towering limestone cliffs of Band-e-Amir reflect perfectly in the deep, sapphire-blue waters of Afghanistan’s first national park.

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Takht-e-Rustam
The ancient, rock-cut Buddhist stupa carved directly into the Samangan landscape remains a powerful testament to Afghanistan’s pre-Islamic heritage.

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Minaret of Jam
The towering, 12th-century Minaret of Jam stands as a lonely, intricate sentinel amidst the rugged and sun-drenched mountains of Ghor.

Round Flag Sticker
Old Flag Round Sticker
Cut to the exact shape. Removable, low-tack adhesive that peels clean with no residue. Available in matte white, glossy white, or glossy transparent vinyl. Printed with solvent inks: fade-proof, waterproof, and scratch-resistant.

Round Flag Sticker
New Flag Round Sticker
Cut to the exact shape. Removable, low-tack adhesive that peels clean with no residue. Available in matte white, glossy white, or glossy transparent vinyl. Printed with solvent inks: fade-proof, waterproof, and scratch-resistant.

Note: All values in USD, unless otherwise mentioned, are approximate and based on the exchange rate of USD 1 = AFN 67 at the time of publishing. Each cost is for one adult. Note that the expenses do not include international flights to and from Afghanistan.
 

 
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