At this point the young soldiers are milling about with their air of self-conscious debutantes and the real action is in the people who run at the border gates carrying a huge Indian flag. A compere stokes the crowd’s patriotic fervor, as they cry “Hindustan Zindabad” (long-live India). The Pakistanis are equally vociferous, except during Ramadan, when the stands are noticeably quieter, and are segregated by sex.
The gates flung open and the commanding officers march up to each other and perform a brief handshake and salute. Then the guard parties goose-step to the border and wheel to face their flags, the Indian and Pakistani soldiers stand shoulder to shoulder, their black-and-red and green, red & gold uniforms only centimeters apart. Bugles blow and the flags are lowered slowly, diplomatically remaining at the same level. The flags are quickly folded and marched back to their respective guardrooms. The border – separating western Punjab from an area that, until 1947, was also a part of the state is closed to the public now.
Information:
People come to the border, 30 km west of Amritsar, for two enjoy the late afternoon border-crossing ceremony or to use the only crossing between India and Pakistan. Buses travel from Amritsar to Attari village – Rs 15, 1.25 hours – and then an autorickshaw will take you from there to the border for Rs 15. Taxis from Amritsar to the border (one way or return) cost Rs 450 and take an hour, while autorickshaws charge Rs 200. Shared jeeps also run to the border-closing ceremony from the dining-hall entrance to the Golden Temple. They leave about two hours before the ceremony starts and return afterwards.
Some Tips:
NOTE: These tips are for visitors who are visiting from the Indian side of the Wagah border.
1. If you’re hiring a taxi to visit the border from Amritsar, always haggle with the taxi drivers as they may charge higher rates, especially if you’re a non-Indian. Make sure to check with some locals there on the going prices and do not pay a penny more.
2. There’s a long line to enter the seating area before the ceremony starts, so make sure to arrive at least 2 hours prior.
3. VIP seating is available if you have any “connections” with the BSF (Border Security Force). If you get a VIP seating then you are very close to the border gates and probably in the front row seats. Moreover, you don’t have to stand in the line and your driver can park your car up ahead, inside the chambers. Check with your hotel on how you can get the VIP seating. Some hotels may be able to offer you this for a minimal price. Foreigners are allowed to sit at the front in the VIP area.
4. You are not allowed to carry a whole bunch of stuff in the ceremony area, which includes bags, purses (small purses for cash is allowed), firearms, food items, etc. Cellphones, water bottles, cameras are allowed. Do not leave your cash and wallets in the car, make sure to carry them with you.